With the 54% residual plugged in, here is what I got.
Monthly payment still looks good. Have you actually gotten quotes from dealers? Maybe you can negotiate a little more off MSRP?
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Okay, here are the quotes I have from Cerritos; $364 including tax, from Glendale, $268 plus tax. Makes no sense for same car. Which is why dealing with these salesmen makes me a little nuts.
Sounds like the difference is one dealer is discounting 3500 dollar difference from the other. Not sure, but that is a pretty big variation, but I’ve seen that on different cars; specifically accords depending on the market.
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Do everything over email and don’t walk in until you have a deal. If they don’t want to quote over email don’t deal with them and move on to the next dealer. Go directly to sales manager or internet manager. It has nothing to do with you being a “woman”, salesman try to screw everyone who walks in. It’s not sexist it’s the crappy business model, you’re not special.
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Agreed, Chris. No one escapes the culture that is a car dealership.
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People always looking to insert something like gender or race.
It works against your intent.
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BTW, I am not implying that women are bad at math! Just me…
If you negotiate over email no one will know you area female.
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Based on the information provided, I’ve confirmed a monthly lease payment of $242.21 including 9.50% sales tax.
You can’t negotiate the residual value as it is set by the fund provider. However, you can negotiate the buyout if you intend to purchase when you terminate the lease. Also, I think you can do better in terms of the selling price. You may want to check edmunds to see what others have paid. A money factor of 0.00194 seems rather high to me as it is equivalent to an interest rate of about 4.7%. You may want to check edmunds for the current base (buy rate) money factor.
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You can’t negotiate a higher residual, but you can make it lower if you want to purchase it later. I wouldn’t recommend that, as the “bird in the hand” will be a higher payment and you might not even want to buy it later. I wouldn’t worry about buying the car later until you’re at the end of the lease- if it makes sense, it makes sense.
It doesn’t look like you’ve done much research on the Niro lease, to be honest. Certainly not enough to be telling people “take it or leave it,” as least at this point. As mentioned above, you should deal with some internet salespeople and not show up until you’re ready to take delivery.
I ran the Niro on TRUECar in LA and got a quote of about $3,000 off MSRP. Those prices have dealer incentives baked in, so don’t assume your price is going to be $3,630 less than what a dealer quotes you. See what a Costco Internet salesperson offers you. Unless you like doing this, I’d suggest hiring a broker and let them earn their keep.
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Thank you! It turns out that my husband doesn’t like the car, so now I’m looking at a Honda Insight or a Toyota Prius. Back to the drawing board…
You’re not going to get a good deal on either of those TBH. Look at the Volt and just go to @chevysalesgirl for a great deal with no hassle necessary. She can even deliver!
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Isn’t the Clarity leasing pretty well?
I’m totally independent of any broker/brand/dealer/business on this site.
That being said, I don’t love the idea of precluding Cody (or any other business) out of hand just right away. I’d kinda prefer the OP to decide between the different Marques and deals our awesome businesses and brokers peddle.
As always, my $0.02. Add $1.98 and you have a double espresso.
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My apologies to everyone but especially @Cody_Carter. I haven’t kept up on Prius lately and this is a very stressful week so my brain is jello. I didn’t even realize he was recommended the post before mine until reading this. Volt has been on my mind lately 
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Not in SoCal. Only the Northeast