Hello, and thanks in advance for looking.
I’ve read the post over and over, and I think I’m just missing something.
I found the post the Senwia made about the Volvo, and started doing my homework, and went to my local dealer ship in Lexington, KY. He offered me all the discounts that were available, including the Sam’s club, he even offered $500 into holdback, but he couldn’t get close to the payment of the original thread.
The short answer to why he is so far apart is he is at about a 6.5% dealer discount, where the people getting good deals are in the 10-12% dealer discount range. It also doesn’t help that you’re somewhere where the incentives are $6750 instead of $7250.
Finally, you’re not applying MSDs, which would drop your payment $40 a month.
I guess I’m unsure about where the deeper discounts are coming from, he was offering to sell the car for $500 below invoice, less all the rebates and incentives that apply. I didn’t realize that the MSDs would lower the payment that much as well $40x24=$960!
Im in a similar situation. My local dealer just gave me this…
MSRP $54845
Selling $46085
MF 0.0069
residuel 53% of MSRP
$1500 Lease bonus
$4000 Allowance on T5 momentum AWD
$3500 drive off
10k miles a year
36 months
$449 plus tax
Invoice is 6%, holdback is another 4%, then there’s the advertising fees, special bonuses, etc, that they get on top of that.
He’s giving you just over 6%, so you’re basically at the exact same price you could get from any volvo dealer around with 0 effort by just saying “give me the base a-plan price”.
Don’t know what market you’re in, but in most the T5 AWD isn’t even worth looking at. The T6 leases cheaper because of the greater incentives and the higher RV.
I understood that Sam’s club is the same as A-plan. How do you get A-plan if you aren’t an employee? I’m in Kentucky, I may just contact the dealer in Illinois that the deal I’m trying to copy was done at. it’s not that far of a drive. Also, this was based on a T6.
A dealer isn’t going to care about this community. To walk into a dealer and say “I saw this on Leasehackr, replicate it” is a waste of time, and not the way to approach
Just because other people on here have received amazing deals doesnt mean that particular dealer is willing to give it. Cast a wide net and be prepared to travel to either purchase the vehicle or at a minimum have a more local dealer match a far away offer. Going into the dealership has never done anything except waste my time.
My 2 local dealers (owned by same company) feel like they are doing you a favor selling at 6% A plan discount. When I bought mine at 12% off at the end of 2017, I had a dealer from a nearby town match an offer from 350 miles away as a last minute end of the year special. I have gone back to that same dealer who gave me the deal several times this year for friends and colleagues and they have been nowhere close.
Email every dealer within 250 miles the car you want a quote on. Why would a dealer give a great price if they have no competition. Make them all bid against each other to get you business. Plan on it taking a week and on the last day of the month counter the best deal you have by $5 a month and you will probably get it if you are willing to sign it that day.
Better than asking for a quote, is giving them one. Use the calculator to calculate the lease numbers with a 10% dealer discount on a car they have in stock. Be sure to quote the stock number. Do this to as many dealers as you can.
this is incredibly important to understand. Past deals don’t mean anything for future deals, even from the same dealership. There’s no such thing as loyalty in this game, thats why you have to treat it with the same hostility as they do if you want to get anywhere. If one dealer doesnt want to discount, even if you got a car from them in the past, move on, there are more dealerships.
