It can’t get any worse than it is now, but can get better if someone here helps you to actually make it better. Or it can stay the same, if you keep doing it yourself.
This is exactly it.
I was simply looking for the key numbers that I had been shown before, they were all there.
If I had stopped to analyze the paper and took five minutes (not long, that’s all it would have taken, five minutes) - if I had done that I would have realized it was wrong.
That’s exactly what I did later in that night. I knew it was wrong in five minutes. I simply did not expect that level of deceit, they did the exact thing I asked them not to do. To me, I do not experience that level of deception on a daily basis. I would absolutely kill myself if I had to lie to people like this on a daily basis.
This is not a good life, but whatever.
I can suck it up. I’ll never buy or lease anything from them again, and I will write a few letters to the management and the BBB, yelp, and maybe even the attorney general.
I’m pissed off, but yea we all know the only thing that matters is, did you sign it?
Yes I did,
So, I own it.
I guess someone can learn from this and know that, guess what?
It does not matter 1 cent what they say, and they will do anything they can to take every cent you have and then they’ll tell you they are losing money.
And then they’ll probably laugh and say what a moron, whatever… It’s fraud man, I don’t have any other opinion about it. It is fraudulent to agree to something, to accept someone’s words, and then do the thing they told you NO on… and they get away with it because their system is damn complex and I’m four hours into this thing and just want the damn car for $1500 down, please can I go home now.
It’s BS.
Whatever, I’ll eat it and i’ll do what I can to make sure that other people know. Bout all I can do. I’m getting my cash back at least. I’ll try and turn this into something that is at least acceptable, bad but acceptable.
I will pm you the contract with names blanked out, but not tonight. I’m in bed and I’m not doing it now.
The risk of posting your deal here is this:
(1) Someone tries to poach it from you;
(2) Someone from the dealer is monitoring and knows you don’t know what you’re doing;
(3) You’re worried about someone ascertaining your identity.
Here are my responses:
(1) No one in their right mind is going to poach this deal from you.
(2) Redact the VIN and dealer name from the paperwork. Even if they still figure it out, at this point they have the upper hand anyway.
(3) Redact the paperwork to remove your name and address.
I don’t need it. There are better options here.
Oh lord.
$400?
To do this?
I am a week into this shit with the potential to need a damn attorney AND having to redo a lease BOTH of which will end up bad… and it is costing me thousands out of pocket.
$400 measly dollars?
If only I had a time machine.
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Please do tell me what is best option now… sent you the lease.
Buy @ $879?
Lease @ 589 with $3k back?
Lease @ 710 with $6k back?
Everyone says don’t buy and I will not unless that advice changes. After seeing lease if you can let me know, probably does not matter at this point. But there you go, no troll, just not too bright this time around.
Thnx, will try to check tomorrow.
Ask @jon if he wants to look at your contarct.
It’s like a surgery and they offer you a painkiller, which is in fact a placebo. You will live but will have a scar. I’d take $6K, so in case you total your car you won’t lose this money. But some people like lower payments.
But like I said before - looks like these numbers are for 24 months ($40 per $1,000 difference between 3K and 6K payments)
Edit: also not sure if MSDs are again/still available on BMW? You can use this $6K to put down max MSDs to reduce MF.
That’s stuff I don’t know at all, I should ask for $30 for every $1,000 financed because it is a three year lease, or ask for the lease numbers to stay the same and make this a 2 year lease?
Thanks, yes I know. Nothing is going to make this a good lease at this point, and that’s all i’m Trying to do is just find a simple thing (if there is one) to just come out of it with as clean a scar as possible.
He sent me his contract…
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You said earlier that you wanted 36 months now, while the original contract (the one you sent me) is for 24 months. So the numbers you posted are for 24 months. If you want 36 months, ask the dealer to give you the same breakdown on 36 months. But they will have to redo the contract and RV will change, so 36 months may not be better.
This is for 36 months.
I went into the dealership asking for 24…
The numbers they showed me were even higher than these.
So I settled on 36 just to pay less money.
I went in there with 24 in mind, but all these numbers are for 36.
That’s what the deal was written for, their stupid worksheet with the two rows and three columns… 24mo was around $800/mo.
I think I have that worksheet around here somewhere. Actually, I went in there asking for the m240i and I do have that worksheet.
They said the residuals on the m240i were 53% after 2 years, and 51% after 3. I wonder if that is even true.
I’ll try and find it.
When this is all over i’ll Let you know how they are. I wouldn’t want anyone else to go through this, even if they are better at this than I am. It’s like walking into a giant spider’s web.
Here is what it should be for 24/12 based on your deal sheet ($6,7xx down / $3,000 down / 0 down). Their numbers are for 24 months, not 36. Don’t know RV for 36 months, but the payments should be lower than these.
Thank you very, very much.
I’ve just gotten home.
This is going to help me tremendously.
RV for 36 months is 61%. What’s more curious to me is that there are no fees shown in either the quote or the contract - no acquisition fee, no doc fee, no registration fees - nothing.
I can’t say why we are seeing two different things. I can make the numbers add up on the contract. Having quite a bit of difficulty reading the quote.
For 36 months it’s $373/$491/$586. Yeah, I just went by deal sheet with adj cap cost $41,682. I’m within 3 cents of their quote. The contract is a mess - I think they increased the sale price by $2k and added who knows what else there.
Edit: $373/$491/$586 for 36/10k. Thanks, @28firefighter LOL
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when this is eventually all sorted out, you should name and shame the dealer so we all know to avoid at all costs.
Here I am sitting at the dealership waiting for service and decided to check into Leasehackr, saw this message from last year.
I apologize for not ever getting back to you. I didn’t see your last messages. This is way old, but anyway, grateful for the assistance you tried to give me and wanted to say keep at it. Although this deal wasn’t good for me, I have learned something from it and will not buy or lease another car again by myself.
I was really worried about naming and shaming, at the time last year I didn’t know what I was doing, was embarrassed as hell, and didn’t want to expose myself as the fool that I was.
In any event, with your help I realized the lease was an absolutely awful deal and I ended up buying the car instead. I had initially signed the lease not really understanding it and then told them that I felt they lied to me. They agreed to let me buy the car instead. During the contract signing to buy, the finance guy raised the apr by a whole point. He told me 4.1, then made it 5.1 as I was signing, reasoning being - “oh, your credit score dropped by 10pts since you applied for the lease, so we can’t give you 4.1 now for the purchase.”
I ended up paying 760/mo to buy the car at 5.1%. I’m sure that sucks. I do like the car, but I am thinking of getting out of it once two years go by and I am not underwater. I owe about $40k, sales price was $56. I realize that all around I did horrible.
I’d like to use a broker next time, because this was by far the worst car buying/ (1st time leasing) experience I’ve ever had and paying someone $500 to do this for me would be worth every penny.
The dealership was Peterson Boise BMW. I say without any malice at all, but I will never buy anything from them again, ever, and I will be buying more cars. They have a good service department, which I am thankful for, but I’ll never consider another car from them or their larger owner, Peterson. I also can’t really do any upgrades here because I don’t want to give Peterson the money. Kinda sucks, and I am coming to realize that buying a new car is not simply as easy as a good deal… you are also buying the car dealer service department because you will need warranty work at some point. At least I can say, the service department has been good.
I suck at math and this time it really burned me. I understand general principles of finance and by that I mean I understand lower numbers are better. The whole issue with how convoluted this thread became was my embarrassment at being such a math retard.
Now that it’s a year past though, I don’t care as much. I would suggest that people stay away from Peterson Auto Sales in Boise, and stay away from Boise BMW, but ymmv.
I have since learned that there is another BMW dealer in twin falls and have reached out, he’s also on this forum and he seems like a decent guy. Wilso at Twin Falls BMW.
Thanks again for the time that you all put into this thread and I hope all is going well for you this year!