Ask for a higher discount like @gc2a recommended? Only way to bring down the price.
Instead of proposing a monthly payment, put the numbers in the LH calculator and find out where you need to be from a dealer discount. If you are comfortable with 8%, suggest that but know all the numbers.
Otherwise, maybe hire @mani_is_kool since he’s in FL.
You may also wanna possibly explore getting one from the east coast and shipping out to you like @PeterK did
shipping is $450 from philly to Chicago. I’m sure you can get a much better deal in northeast and pay $500-600 to ship.
What is the buyrate MF? Did you find that out from Edmunds forums?
Yep, getting base rate at .00155
Like everyone is saying, you’re going to have to broaden your search to find a lower total of selling price and doc fee.
Got the dealer to revise to the following terms, on a slightly more expensive car, thoughts?
39 month / 12k lease (56% residual, 0.00155 MF)
MSRP: 64,990
Discount: 6,000
Incentives: 5,500
Adj. Price: 53,490
Trade Equity: 4000
Taxable Fees: 375
Doc Fee: 899
Tax: 300
Acquisition Fees: 895
Total Cap Cost: $51,950
Total: $623/month, First Month Due at Signing + Trade Value ($4,000)
You keep ignoring decent advice people are giving you. I am from FL…there is no retail deal here, you will need to source the car from out of state. Or get a broker in FL or out but you will get burned by the dealer the way I see it. Unless you know your hard numbers and the margins and can tell a good deal from bad you will not win this yourself. Even if you did the FL dealers dont DEAL really.
Appreciate it, wasn’t trying to ignore other advice but was just too far in the weeds to realize if each back/forth was bringing it within that range of being a solid deal.
From my perspective, this looked pretty good and avoided the complexities of dealing out of state (especially given we want to do a trade-in)
You’re at close to 10% discount plus incentives and base MF so it’s always going to be a decent deal.
Biggest thing that sticks out to me is the change from 36 month to 39 month, and from including Audicare to not. Those factors are going to add a fair amount extra to your running costs. You want to make sure you don’t hit 40k miles without Audicare as that’s an expensive service just as you’re about to hand the vehicle back.
It seems like you’re hesitant to look further afield due to your trade I’m guessing? If so I would probably aim to get the payment closer to 700p/m including Audicare and see if they will do that deal. If you don’t really want the options on the higher MSRP vehicle see if they’ll do the same discount level on the cheaper vehicle.
Talked with them over the last hour and got them to add Audicare back in and deepen the discount a bit more.
Now sitting at $604/month (with trade still factored in). You’re correct about the trade @ajgraham this is our local dealer so I have a bit more zone of tolerance for a great deal as opposed a steal on a vehicle states away.
What is the selling price? Did they discount the car $750 more or something else? You are playing into the dealer’s game by talking in monthly payment. Did the money DAS not change? With Audicare added the RV will go up, so what’s the net result?
Also, why did your trade go down in value $500 in one week?
Lastly, I suggest you use MSDs to reduce the MF if you have the available cash on hand.
That’s a good idea, use the trade in cash for MSDs instead of money down. The dealer might push back but that’s a better use of the trade in cash.