This may be the simplest and most practical way to go without spending thousands for nothing
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if you have to roll 10,000 into a car that your getting $7-8,000 off sticker.
its no different then selling 2k over sticker with 0 drive off which is easily doable.
I even just replicated another one on a 48K qx60 pure
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another other option, depending on what you “need” an SUV for, just add a roof rack to the ES.
Usually LTV is based off msrp though, not selling price, no?
I assume you already tried or inquired, but wouldn’t your work throw up some for a new vehicle if you are “required” to get an suv?
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Totaled a car on turo once. driver left and 5 minutes later car was crushed. Left me in a big mess
That’s the $4000. I was stipend $3500. I’ll add 500 to make it 4000
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oh, heck, a $3500 stipend? Get a trailer and a hitch on the ES. Problem solved.
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You WANT an SUV. You don’t need one.
I am just going to be blunt. It does not appear you have learned your lesson.
My advice (coming from an internet stranger) is just ride out your current lease. That is the only way to stop this “rolling in negative equity” cycle.
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12k rebates on the Ram Warlock if done through ally so buying that truck and full price. May even qualify for extra incentives on top.
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The MDX has $1500 conquest and $7500 lease cash on leases with base MF. You aren’t burying this $14k at Lexus.
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I think my verbiage is off. If anyone here has an ES or even an IS then you know the trunk is decent. The opening is the problem. I can’t fit boxes in the car. Nothing that can be put on the roof. I’ll be doing some deliveries for my current employee versus using our currier service. Cutting back because of covid.
I shouldn’t have rolled in money that I should have paid in cash for my last Lexus. But this is where I am.
Find a dealer who will let you order the rear seat deleted Chevy Bolt. Boom.
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Just so I understand how these incentives work. Are they applied to msrp?
For example if the msrp is $20k and there’s $5k in rebates etc, then it’s $15k. Rolling in let’s say $10k negative equity brings it back up to $25k making it easier to afford in a sense?
Another piece of advice - If you received a pay raise with the new role, I would suggest saving some of that “extra” cash if you can.
Put that cash in a savings account.
Don’t do it. You will eventually regret it and would end up being in worse financial shape.
You are LUCKY you are leasing the ES.
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no the selling price definitely plays a role.
think about it…if your getting a $50,000 vehicle from a broker and his cost is $40,000.
Have them add $10,000 in “profit” to the deal resulting in them selling it at sticker and they cut check back for the negative.
I know this is very uncommon on lease hacker and everybody advises against it but its a common thing in the dealership world unfortunately. not everybody is smart like a lot of the fellas on here haha
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You don’t need a $54k SUV for deliveries.
What they said.
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Yes: they are a direct discount from the manufacturer (not the dealer) to reduce the cost of the car. The dealer should be able to discount the car further.
If you are rolling that much negative, you need something with trunk money. It’s a terrible idea, but made it sound like terrible ideas are what you want to make your Lexus and it’s bad Carfax go away.
Yeah I realized what you were saying, got crossed up thinking about that for a second. I should know better than anyone being one of the more fiscally liberal Hackrs here regarding the dark art of burying negative equity.
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It is a dangerous art indeed
It can be done but the tough part is swallowing the fact your paying practically double for something.
The light at the end of the tunnel is that if you can stick out the full lease term then you have a clean slate at the end.