Personally, when you’re looking at $525/mo on a $35k car that tends to hold its value decently, I would look long and hard at purchasing it instead of leasing.
Another Question I would have for mine is that on the leasehacker calculator it states total lease cost is approx “$14k” however, the contract states “$16.5k”
Is this where I got beat for $2.5k? or am I not reading correctly?
I hate that I could have saved $50 a month on the lease between those 2 offers for the same Mazda CX5… but it was better than the other guy who paid $610…
How can one know when to pull the trigger on a deal and that you will always have one of the best competitive offers? I researched for 2 mos and still found myself to be ignorant of how much I “could have saved” with no understanding of how to get there…
Yes, I noticed that when I went back…that was the original deal I modified for 30mos 12kmiles and 6.35% tax paying only DMV fee upfron.
That’s it! Thanks… clearly you are the brains of this outfit… I’m still a noob…
trying to get it right… have to assist in another lease in the coming months… will be “helping” the 3rd person in last 6mos get a lease.
Would like to get one right…
BTW went thru Stellar Auto Broker for this lease and was very happy with how they did business. Professionals, easy, and a better lease price than I was able to negotiate. Definitely using Paul for the next lease, just want to make sure I get another that is $50 a month cheaper …
If you want to use a broker, look at the LH Marketplace and compare all deals on an apples:apples basis comparing total cost including broker fees, shipping if applicable, etc.
If you want to learn how leasing works, then read and learn. No one else can really help you until you know the basics.
Educate yourself with all the helpful content here starting with all the articles in the Leasing 101 section (EDITORIAL | LEASEHACKR), and then have an educated discussion about how to make a decent deal better, if possible.
I guess this is where I get lost… and I have been reading non-stop.
The important is the inputs… how much the lease will cost over the lease life (this is the real # based on the residual of what you pay to use the car and you want this as low as possible), how much down… (zero)… Acq, doc, and DMV fees, MF, resid %, I’ve read a lot…
still, in trying to negotiate the best possible price when MF and resid change on trims, length of lease, mileage… and recognizing a what is a “good deal” and what is a better deal…
again, with the available information, I had at the time I feel I got a “good deal” … Yet, a few weeks later a better deal comes out…
I get the leasing 101… I need to get over the hump and have a better understanding of leasing 202 …
Thank you for your support and help… some people can go pro, come can teach, some can make sense of how to secure the best deal… still trying to lear to the best of my ability…
wish I found this place sooner… and was more adept. Thanks again.