Trying to understand Audi e-tron offer sheet

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I’m in South Florida, looking right now as far as Tennessee for the right Audi e-tron Prestige and deal. I got this offer sheet from a dealer, but I don’t understand why the monthly is different when I plug it into the calculator.

I know the monthly on here isn’t good (in part because of the the marked up MF). I’m just asking for help interpreting it right now. When I plug these numbers into the calculator with the marked up MF, I get $829.

If I can get them to do the base MF, which should be about $725 monthly, I’m in. Not maximum hacked, but I’ll feel pretty good.

Post a calc link. Nobody knows your inputs as to why your numbers differ

Duh. That’s my bad.

I left it with the MF = 0.00273 to match the sheet.

Actually, it looks like they wrote it up as $0 DAS. That gives me a monthly of $927, which is pretty close.

Good deal. Do 24 months, 7.5k miles, get base MF and do full MSds, take two aspirins and let us know how you do.

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I actually need the miles, and my wife would prefer to keep it for 3 years. I know it’s not unicorn-optimized, but I also need to consider how I’ll use it.

We’ll see if I can close it out today.

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Paying more to drive an older car. Isn’t that against a LH commandment of something?

My girlfriend needed the mileage too. @vhooloo is telling you to go with the lowest mileage to bump your residual up. This decreases your payment much much more. Once deal is signed, you can contract Audi and up your mileage if you want- or just go over the 4,500/per year and true it up in the end. Either way the money comes out the front or the back- no reason to pay more in that payment.

UPDATE: Based on further math- thats wrong. Instead of deleting the post, I am open to showing the err in my ways. Mileage is cheaper if purchased up front rather than later. BUT if you buy the car out in the end at market rate than the lower mileage option is better.

You need to do the math before making that suggestion. It is almost always cheaper to buy the miles up front via residual bump down than to buy the miles at the end on a per-mile basis. Just suggesting taking the lowest miles/highest residual up front could get him screwed in the end.

If it calculates to less than $0.25/mile than sure, but thats a rare event. My R8 was $1.25/mile up front in the lease term or in the end. Same thing on the A6, Q5, Q7, Q8, and e-tron (all .25). My suggestion is strictly based off leasing an Audi. It was never a different price up front.

Not to mention, if he buys it out at a lower residualized price, then the mileage never mattered to begin with; even if he trades it in, they still forgive mileage as long as you get another Audi.

It still doesn’t matter if the extra miles cost the same at inception as they do at the end or not. You need to do the math with the residual bump and without it to see if paying per mile is cheaper in the end than taking fewer miles up front. Most of the time, it is not.

Again, if he even has an inkling of wanting to purchase this at lease end, he should do the math upfront to see if purchasing now is cheaper. There too, it’s almost always cheaper to buy at the beginning than to buy at lease end.

That said, with tech changing daily, there’s no way I’d consider this to be a buy candidate unless he plans on driving it till the wheels fell off.

There’s a 2% RV difference between 7500 and 12k, so on the e-tron, your total lease cost ends up going up by ~$1800 if you take the higher mileage.

Paying $.25 for the same mileage increase would cost about $3500 here

Here in NoCal: the Residual at 36 mo for 12k is 46% vs 36 mo for 7.5k is 48%. I don’t know, lets do the quick math. Appears to be a 2% difference so the calculations show up front roughly a $49 difference per monthand at 36 mo is $1,764 but at the lower mileage and paying is $3,375.

I stand CORRECTED- @mp11477 I am wrong! Bad suggestion on my part

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I wouldn’t call it a bad suggestion per se, provided the math makes it work. Always important to do the math first though.

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No chance would I buy this car either.

Thanks for the added options. I hadn’t considered that buying at the end would be cheaper than buying upfront through the reduce residual. It didn’t happen in this case, but I can see how it might in others.

it’s not always the case. Plus, you have to consider you pay an acquisition fee to begin the lease, which you don’t pay for through a finance. Then, you’ll likely have to pay doc/title/lic fees again when you go from lease to buy that you already paid upfront, since you can’t just refinance through the captive, and have to do it at a dealership.

I wouldn’t call this a good deal but there are some good things working for you like the discount.

Confirm your dealer’s marketing allowance from edmunds, whether it’s $7500 or $9500 for the Prestige trim. Get buy rate MF and aim for another basis point off sale price and you should be golden. Also, strongly consider Audicare here for a residual bump and esp. given the high mileage lease.

You can’t go lower than buy rate, so he’s not getting any BP lower.

In other words, if he gets any basis points lower, he didn’t get buy rate from the start.

My bad, I meant off sale price.

$599 “Processing Fee”?