That’s not the point, but I give up because we are going around in circles. I just outlined a plausible real world scenario with real numbers where a buyer could leave almost two thousand dollars on the table, but all you’ll continue saying is:
“But the final numbers will be correct.”
“But the final numbers will be correct.”
“But the final numbers will be correct.”
“But the final numbers will be correct.”
“But the final numbers will be correct.”
“But the final numbers will be correct.”
I think all he is trying to say @max_g is that when the customer gets the final numbers in front of them to sign they should be able to see if the previously agreed deal is still in place. And if there had been errors, or skulduggery, buy the dealer then those numbers should be apparent.
I also understand that if you don’t spot them then you are going to be giving the dealer money as per your excellent example. I think everyone is on the same page here, the only issue is that we are dealing with humans who sign contracts and they can make mistakes. if only we could get rid of humans from the equation then we would not have to worry about any of this. Might see if Elon can help with that!
The reality is once you sign a lease contract you are obligated to pay the amounts stated on the contract regardless of whether there is an error or the dealer pulled one over on you. I once signed a lease where the money factor was off by .00010 from what we had agreed upon, and the dealer sent me a check for the payment difference over 36 months upon verifying the error, but was certainly under no obligation to do so (it was my mistake not verifying the MF as lease contracts never state the MF).
Let’s try this: assuming there are no errors in the final numbers (whether they are BS or good), the ONLY 2 constants that cannot be set/changed by a dealer are RV and sales tax rate.
If you know nothing about leasing and get ripped off at signing, you can be sure about two things - that RV and sales tax are correct.
You need RV to calculate lease payments on your own to be able to negotiate other numbers. But you don’t even need tax rate for that - just calculate payments w/out tax and compare them to what dealer gives you. And if everything matches your numbers, you can then ask to roll taxes in. Never hurts to double check of course, IF you know tax rates.
My first lease was in VA and the car was registered in NY. I knew nothing about leasing back then. So the dealer charged me VA tax on the full sales price, rather than NY tax on the rental portion only. A few months later I was pleasantly surprised when I received a check from the dealer for $700-900 (don’t remember the exact amount). Not that they were so nice, but they had to return the overcharge by law.