Just focus on giving them a simple yes/no answer to give you. If you get a no with no counter just move on. They really don’t care about any fluff or education. Many car sales people do not really understand how a lease works fully or understand the available offers.
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Holy crap I got the deal
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What happened to the rest of the incentives?
Good job, congratulations
It’s there. I couldn’t find the Costco one in the list, so I just added everything up manually for 3250.
Did you move on from the loaner that had the extra $3k?
Yeah, they wouldn’t budge on a larger discount. I bet they will call at the end of the month though, too bad for them!
And this folks is how it is done and OP is happy with his new ride. Congratulations!
Nice! Which state and what is the post-sale incentive?
new mexico is 3000 but has to be under 55k MSRP and 3-year lease if leasing
Another question…isnt the residual wrong? The calculators show 66%. Is it lower due to car age? It was made 11/23
It’s based on model year, not production year. Thats probably the RV for a 15k mile term.
That’s what I thought too. I asked him again and he said he put in the VIN and that’s what it said. If I talk to him again, I’ll ask him what the residual on 15k then..maybe he will realize it
Little update
He checked on the 15k lease price…and it was the same residual as the 12k price. I have never heard that happening, but he gave some weird reasons (I forget what) that it could happen. At first I told him to just sign me up as 15k, until a fellow leasehackr said that the car warranty is only good until 36k miles.
I emailed him back and said put me back down to 12k unless I am missing something about the car warranty and to please call GM financial and double check on the residual for 12k.
If it really is the same price: Just because you take that mileage allowance doesn’t mean that you would have to use it all. If you are concerned about mileage and it really is the same price (I strongly doubt this), then there’s no reason not to take it. Your bumper to bumper warranty is 36 months, 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. Your powertrain warranty will be longer, depending on the car.
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Just take the 15k term, if its the same price - you’re not losing any warranty or anything just by getting the term - you’d need to drive the miles, and gaining an extra 6000 miles gives you a lot of buffer if you try to swap out of it or drive it.
But the car warranty is 3 years, or 36k miles, whichever is first. So if I drive over 36k and something breaks.. 
Your biggest worries are the battery and motor(s) and they are covered for 8 years, 100k miles.
Do you have frequent experiences with vehicles breaking between 36,000-45,000 miles?
What have those repairs consisted of and how much did they cost?
Or is this more of a “I am so risk averse” I would rather pay to be in a new / under warranty vehicle at all times type philosophy, no matter the cost?
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Just because you have 15k miles doesnt mean you have to use them.
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My Tucson 2010 still going strong, but fixing something that is a lease isn’t something to look forward too