Every post where you promote your business without registration will be removed
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It is at least your 3rd post with the same pitch. Stop spamming, just register if you want to do business here.
Business promotion is also clear in your user name
Lease ending on 2017 Toyota Highlander limited. Buy off is 28.5k. First time leasing so not sure if its best to walk away (kbb said private sale would fetch me 27k), negotiate buy off price, or see of they can give me some incentives to get into a 2020 highlander?
Great deal 
Oh my god you picked the best color man beautiful!
Yes, I think that sometimes people get hung up on getting the buy rate for MF or something when it could be the dealer is more willing to discount the car more if they can make a little more on the backend with a padded MF etc. I worked at a dealer who had that mentality. If someone came in and made a point of knowing the MF and wanting it they wouldn’t discount the car as much and were pretty upfront about it to customers. They explained they were in a for profit business but they still were usually the best deal around unless you were willing to make quite a drive. Of course they got bought out by a mega dealer chain and that all went away. Now my understanding is they are using the Carmax/Saturn model.
There are definitely people that have the mindset of “I have tier 1 credit, buy rate mf is owed to me and anything else is an insult”, however, in my experience, the vast majority of the people that get caught up on the “I’d rather tell them a payment than break down the numbers” train are really saying “I don’t want to take the time to actually figure out the math so I came up with a target price blindly that feels good”.
I agree for the most part but there are the few that don’t want to take the time to go back and forth over and over with the dealer trying to pull teeth to get the numbers/info you need to do the math properly. So they (hopefully) pour over every related (and unrelated) thread in this forum to come up with what they think should be a reasonable target price. Then take that to the dealer in the hopes they’ll do the math and make it work or come close.
Before finding this forum I had never even heard of a lease broker (and was obliviously taken advantage of). After shopping for my most recent car and pulling my hair out trying to get dealers to just simply provide the ****ing info I am asking for, so I can easily see the argument side of “can you do X car for $Y/mo” emails to dealers (but of course not before doing the proper research to see if that number is realistic).
The only information needed from the dealer is what the fees are exactly. There is absolutely no need to go back and forth endlessly. Everything else is available (and should be retrieved from) elsewhere. The dealer should be viewed as someone you’re negotiating a deal with, not as a data resource. There is no motivation for them to be forthcoming with details that will help you negotiate from a stronger position.
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The last piece is critical. For instance if someone is trying to replicate a Volvo deal that stacked first responder with Costco, they better qualify for both of those rebates (or something equivalent to FR like Loyalty)
And taxes obviously. They can’t expect an NJ deal to have the same payment in MD
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I went about it a little differently. I knew from these forums what strong deals were in terms of DAS/payment for the car I wanted and terms (36/12K). Once I had been ghosted by a less than reputable dealer that had a great (but ultimately non-existent) offer I sought out a similar car with similar terms from a broker. The MF didn’t matter, the residual didn’t matter (since I wouldn’t buy it at the end of the lease) and really the fees didn’t matter. If they wanted to charge me $1.00 towards cap cost reduction and $1000 in paperwork fees I wasn’t going to argue it since the total outlay of cash over the length of the lease would be the same no matter how they did it if I added my total DAS (not including MSD’s)and the 36 payments. Do you see a flaw with my method? I know I could pour over the figures and possibly save $2.00 a month but knowing where other very similar cars came in at what would be considered very aggressive pricing and knowing those details I feel like I could know a strong deal without having all of those specifics.
Yes. You severely limited your pool of valid reference deals to those of people that are in your same market and qualify for the same incentives. Comparing monthly/DAS is only useful if all the terms of the lease are the same, and that means same zip, same term, same trim, same month, same incentives, etc. Otherwise you’re just hoping things line up. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don’t.
You can only know if something is an applicable reference if you know what the values are to verify they’re the same.
As an example, volvo for a period of time was offering identical lease terms between two markets on the V90CC a year or so ago, with one critical difference: one market had an extra $6500 trunk cash. Without knowing the details, if you compared against someone in the next market over and matched their deal, you would overpay by thousands of dollars.
It may have worked out for you here, but that doesn’t mean it’s a good strategy.
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Yeah I get that. My region actually has pretty mediocre incentives (no educator/lousy $$ on loyalty) so I chose a broker who worked with dealers in a region that offered the best combination of those that I qualified for since I checked all of the regions I could. Then I looked into the best deals in that area that I could find on LH being offered by the brokers here as I consider them to be a pretty good benchmark. Maybe not offering unicorns daily, but strong. Again, did I get all of the incentives the dealer might have or the buy rate on the MF? Maybe not, but I got a payment/DAS that matches up with what I would consider VERY strong offers (and I am 100% sure far less than a dealer in my region could do even if they wanted the sale because of the disparity in incentives). I know some people subscribe to the 1% rule. I am at about .6% including my DAS being taken into account (but not MSD’s).
Don’t bring that up with mllcb (% rule), he has and will die on that hill telling you it’s wrong, and I guess he’s right, a 1% svo custom Range Rover is a better deal than a 1% Volvo.
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One is a miracle and one is a travesty.
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Being that your deal appears to be nowhere to be found, it’s tough to say if it’s any good or not. Of course, one must factor in all the transportation costs with getting a deal from out of state against any benefits in incentives, and even if the incentives make the deal a better value, it’s still wise to determine if it’s a good deal.
Lol. Yeah I am not sure I subscribe to it myself since it’s a VERY broad figure.
Well rest assured once my car is here and deal is done I will post up to be patted on the back or roasted by those wiser than me on LH. Including transportation costs. I ask that you understand my reluctance to jinx myself by saying something before all is said and done after my experience with Jaffarian.
That’s always the worst time to post up a deal, particularly one that you haven’t broken out the details on.
Well then I will be posting up at the worst time 
you can add that to the roasting you give me.