Yessirrrr. The beauty of this site is that it educates you and gives you the tools to create your own deal. It’s not here to spoon feed you unicorn deals. Once I realized that, I ascended to Super Saiyan leasehackr.
This site can definitely be intimidating. There are some unnecessarily abrasive people. However, a majority of the community is incredibly helpful. If you want something easier without the work (which is totally fine, we all have shit going on) just look at the hundreds of broker listings.
You are looking at this all wrong. You can structure a deal with $0 Due At Signing (DAS), by rolling all fees into the monthly payment.
What they said.
I do not want to sound rude, but you have a lot to learn about leasing. Some of us have provided you with links to useful information on this forum.
You need to take a step back and read up on leasing 101. If that’s too much, hire a broker from the “Marketplace” and get a car that is within your budget.
You need to look at the big asterisk that goes with that that covers the other thousands of dollars not included in the advertisement (taxes, fees, add ons)
Also, don’t confuse “due at signing” with “deposit”. Those are not interchangeable terms and do not mean the same thing.
Ok, but isn’t it worth at least a starting point to start basing what offers you send to the dealership? I understand you can go back and see what others have got or use the edmunds site.
Your primary focus should be negotiating a discount off the MSRP of the car. That is how you get to a pre-incentive selling price. As for fees such as dealer fees, registration fees and acquisition fees, they are non-negotiable. Everyone pays them.
EDIT: Read leasing 101 if you are ready to learn more.
I see mentions of these rebates and other deals for money off. Are those found easily online, or just haggling with the dealership to get the MSRP down?
You can find the different rebates by going onto the edmunds forums. Or you can just cold call a random dealer and ask them what rebates there are for the model you are looking at. I did both to make sure I wasn’t missing anything. Consider everything from recent grad, military, loyalty, conquest, lease cash, etc.
Yes. Rebates further reduce the price of the car. There are some manufacturer rebates such as lease cash that everyone qualifies for, and then there are additional rebates such as loyalty incentives, military, college grad, costco, penfed, etc.
I cannot state this enough, but you need to do some reading.
@egothrasher - Check out this broker deal on the TLX.
They are offering 12% off MSRP + applicable rebates. Monthly is less than $350/month pre-tax + $2.2k due at signing (covering fees and first month) + broker fee. That’s for a 3 year 10k miles per year lease. I don’t recall if you stated your mileage needs.