(1175/24)+(357*1.09)=440
Hmmm over the last month or so I donāt believe Iāve seen any new M Sport 330e deals. Plenty of loaners, lower MSRPs and non M Sports, though. Havenāt tracked it closely, so I could certainly be wrong.
So what youāre saying is that a new 54K 330e for 320 all in, including tax is worth 27% less than one with M sport package (around same price) but likely missing one of the other packages (premium I am guessing). Sure. Iām pretty sure your price on your stacked 530e btw was close to his price.
There arenāt that many to reference, but these two seem to be the most similar.
They are roughly $350/month, however it includes loyalty and DAS was $2k and $2.5k.
The white/beige reference was just an exampleā¦ The M-Sport package was important to me, so I was willing to pay the price for it.
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Dude I donāt have an M sport 330e to show you. I donāt think that package is worth it. I can, right now (or tomorrow) get a 54K MSRP 330e new for around 320 after tax. To be fair, this includes $500 you didnāt get as an incentive so I guess it would be around 330 after tax. So 330 after tax on that car with the packages it has (and are missing from an M sport Iām sure) vs 440 for you.
I donāt begrudge that you got a car that you wanted, thatās awesome. But deal wise, I disagree that it was a good one when 54K MSRP 330e goes for less right now. In fact I think getting an a220 at a higher monthly is more understandable simply because Mercedes isnāt offering these deals and no such comps exist.
Thatās part of reason why I donāt like the M Sport package (aside from the fact that it makes no sense on a slow luxury car). Itās not worth the premium to me. But there are definitely some people who will pay significantly more per month to get it.
But regardless, this looks competitive against the other deals OP posted. Though the best deals are going to be loaners without M Sport.
Heās not saying he got a good deal. But as Dukez points out, itās not a bad deal. 50/mo more is only about 1200 in your example. Again, OP said he knows itās far from Unicorn. But it aināt bad either. Just let it lie, man
Yeah sure. To me itās 25% more for the same MSRP new car and qualifies as ābadā. He could have moved up to the 5 series. He could have picked a better package.
OP says āitās far from unicornā and you can call it ānot a bad dealā.
There isnāt much left to discuss on it then.
I tried getting a deal on M-Sport 330eās in SoCal for the past 2 months and got quotes over 400 with too much DAS pretty much every time.
The OP loves the car and the price is better than market price would be.
I guess it isnāt like a super hacked deal but it seems pretty good to me.
To OP hope you enjoy the hell out of that thing, you scored!
Next one will be even better with loyalty 
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Hi,
I am a newbie here and I am looking for a new BMW Series 3 for my wife before her lease (328i) ends next month. We got the worst lease possible 3 years ago for this 2015 328i loaner (12k miles on it) because we didnāt know anything about leasing a car. We took whatever the saleperson offered because my wife just liked the color. We ended up putting 3k DAS and paying $399/month and paid ton of money for maintenance after manufacturer maintenance plan ended last December. I was silly enough to pay 2k for all brand new tires 2 months before the lease ends without knowing I can get used tires from any tire shop. Thatās my story and I hope I can learn a few things here to get a deal that I can feel I do a good job for the entire course of the lease.
I am in SoCal and looking at 330i or 330e trim (whatever with less monthly payment). Where do I start? Thanks,
Start with the FAQs and learning about the numbers that go into your lease. Focus on:
- Selling price before incentives. Get a bunch of quotes on cars youāre interested in.
- Figure out what incentives you qualify for (OL, college grad, loyalty, conquest, USAA, BMWCCA, etc). You can find information about rebates on any BMW deal posted to the forum since everyone lists them in their deals. Or google
- Plug it all into the Leasehackr Calculator with base money factor (which is .00177 this month on all models)
- Figure out what selling price you need to negotiate down to, in order to get the monthly number you want
- Negotiate with dealers who quoted you
- Apply MSDs to lower your money factor
- Profit
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Quick question: aside from the manufacturer incentives and paying MSDs, is the selling price the only area where people can save money and negotiate to lower lease payments?
Yes. Post sale rebates arenāt accounted for in lease contracts.
Some dealers mark up the MF and occasionally you can get them to back down. In my experience though, those that mark it up donāt usually offer much in terms of good deals in the end.
Thank you. Much appreciated!
I got the similar 330e from the same dealer in March. You MF got jacked up.