Negotiation Advice Pls - Leaf SV 2018

My situation: I have a 36-month lease on a 2015 Nissan Leaf that ends May 31. I’ve been researching MF/RV/incentives for leasing a 2018 Leaf, and we visited a dealership last weekend (the same one that leased us the 2015).

To make things more interesting, Washington state currently has a sales and use tax exemption on the purchase or lease of EVs, but it expires May 31. Starting June 1, EV lease payments will be subject to a 10% sales tax.

We want to lease a 2018 Leaf SV with the SV Technology package for 36 months and 15K miles/year. I’ve attached a copy of the lease they offered us (it’s for 15K, even though it shows 12,000 for ‘Program Miles’).

According to Edmunds, the MF/RV for a 2018 Leaf SV is 0.00003/42% for 36 months/15K. The incentives are $3150 Lease Cash, $1,000 Dealer Cash, and $1,000 Customer Loyalty ($5150 total).

From reading here (and the lease calculator), I’m pretty sure we should be able to get this car for $3000 down and ~$300/month.

This dealer is quoting us $3000 down and $402.55 / month. One thing that’s driving up the price is the $1195 “Bellevue Protection Package”. This is a dealer option that’s supposed to protect the paint and upholstery, and (conveniently enough), they say it’s already been applied to every car on their lot.

The other thing I notice is that they’re not giving us the $1000 Dealer Cash incentive.

We hung around until closing time, and the finance guy finally offered not to charge us for the Protection Package, which would bring the monthly payment down to about $370. Better, but still too high - if they’d offered $350/month, I probably would go for it, just get the deal done.

The finance guy wouldn’t budge, so we left. We have another car (a 2017 Mazda 3), so we can do without the Leaf if we need to (and we told the sales / finance guys).

Question: Assuming we still want to lease a new Leaf before May 31, what’s our next action? My thoughts:

  • I want to negotiate on a car that doesn’t have the over-priced Protection Package. As it is, the finance guy can say he’s already given up $1200, so there’s no room left to negotiate on the price of the actual car. There’s another Nissan dealer about 15 min. away that has at least one equivalent car - do we ask the first dealer to get that car from the second dealer?

  • They’re not giving us the extra $1000 incentive. I didn’t call that out when we were talking to them, because it’s not something that Nissan publicly advertises, so they can deny it exists.

  • The sales tax thing adds an interesting angle. It’s definitely a problem for us (since it would add 10% to our lease payments), but I think it’s an even bigger problem for the dealer. On June 1, suddenly every Leaf on his lot costs 10% more (they have an inventory of about 60 Leafs). It seems unlikely that a dealer would pass the full 10% on to the customer, so I’d imagine they’re going to have to eat some of that tax, which means making less money on each Leaf. In that case, it seems they’ll be trying to sell as many as they can by May 31.

  • Do we wait them out, and let them make the next move?

  • Do we just forget Dealer 1, and go visit Dealer 2? I don’t mind driving 15 minutes to save a few thousand dollars.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

In a word, yes. Your loyalty reward for returning to them to lease another car is a $1200 up charge.

Certainly go to Dealer 2. The biggest thing I learned from this forum is the power of not negotiating in person. Do it all via email/phone and only agree to go in to the dealership to sign the papers.

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Absolutely find a different dealer and do not negotiate in person. Bellevue Nissan does not have a great reputation for being a place to get great deals.

Good luck!

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Thanks - I’m fine with doing the negotiation over phone / email, but I’ve only got 9 days to get the deal done.

Any advice for getting the attention of the right person quickly? I don’t have any contacts at Dealer 2 - do I just email the General Manager or Sales Manager?

I’ve read the How to Get Actual Quotes Out of Dealers thread, so I want to be as specific as possible in my initial email contact.

I did get referred to a salesperson at one dealership (thanks @28firefighter!); however, for the rest of the dealerships I used their “internet quote” submission button on the car I wanted. I then was contacted by an Internet Sales Manager who I negotiated with. This is just my experience, I’m sure others have further input to provide. I think my deal overall took 12 days from first test driving the car to signing the papers but I wasn’t in any hurry. I’m sure you can get something worked out in 9 days!

Tell them you’re prepared to buy that day if you can come to an agreement. You’ll have their attention.

I usually try the internet sales manager first

Just to follow up on this thread: I followed the advice about not negotiating in person. I contacted Dealer 2 through their website (by asking for a quote on the vehicle I was interested in).

The next morning (Tuesday), a sales person emailed me, and around noon I replied with what I was looking for, referencing a specific car in their inventory, and what I thought a reasonable offer would be ($3000 down, $300/month for a 36-month, 15K/year lease).

The original sales person was out of the office Wednesday, but the sales manager replied, agreeing to the deal. I signed the papers Wednesday afternoon, and Wednesday evening we returned the 2015 Leaf, and picked up the 2018 Leaf!

Thanks everybody for the advice and encouragement. I was skeptical that I’d get a better deal this way, but the group wisdom prevailed :grinning: .

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He said he already picked up the car

Sorry for coming in late, but I have to ask - shouldn’t the federal rebate be included in there somewhere?

No, when you lease the car you are not the owner, the manufacturer is. They can choose to include the rebate or not, or they can choose to use some of the money to inflate residuals, or lower the money factor, or give it to you as lease cash, or like I said, do none of the above.