Need ideas on how to minimize losses w/ ending lease early

If I could find them for that cheap, I’ll definitely do that. But I also don’t know if my next lease will be another i3 yet.

#4 is very disappointing :sob::sob::sob::sob: RWD and can’t drift in snow?

I’d buy wheels with various lug patterns, 17/18 inch in diameter. Should fit most cars.

Mine is a fwd, but with snow tires it won’t drift.

rwd with snow will drift. but after test driving a rav4 hybrid (has awd) I’d rather have my rwd with blizzaks then awd with all seasons. awd with blizzaks would be awesome.

Definitely. RWD with snow tires is totally manageable. Just need to make the investment. If anyone sees a good deal on rims/tires I’d be interested

Hi everyone, didn’t want to open a new thread so wanted to ask here.

I still have 6 months with my Jeep Cherokee till my lease-end but I’ll be over my mileage in 3 months so would like to get a new lease in couple months (may be March end if I can get a good deal). I looked at couple dealers before year-end but didn’t sign due to the negative equity on my car. The negative equity on the car was more than my remaining payments (Volvo dealer appraised it and Carmax also offered something similar)

Considering the mileage and the negative equity, I’m OK with paying with remaining lease payments when I get a new lease but I don’t want to keep the car and pay insurance until lease-end.

Do you guys know if its possible to agree with a dealer for them to take my car and roll my remaining lease payments into the new lease? They can either buy it out from Chrysler or keep until lease-end date and turn it in but I want to limit my hit to the remaining lease amounts, not the negative equity which more than my payments.

thanks so much

If you’re going to do it, just roll the payments and disposition fee into the deal instead of having them buy it if you end up with less negative equity that way. I did that today since the numbers worked out better than them buying it on a trade.

How much over the mileage allotment will you be? Most things are $0.25 or $0.20 per mile. I believe with some companies you can prepay some miles for a cheaper price. I’m willing to bet it’ll be far cheaper that way

That’s another way to look at it… I’m debating that with my Malibu, still need to do the math on buying more miles vs getting out of it, but I have time to think about it.

thanks! so it’s an option for them to pay Chrysler directly for remaining payments and roll that in the new lease? what happens to the car with that option? do they just take it and keep it until lease end? I don’t want to keep paying insurance

thanks again

i’ll probably be 3-4k over if i keep until the end but the car started having some issues, dealer fixed it under warranty until now but i don’t want to keep it after 36k miles and have another issue and then pay a lot of money for a repair.

If it is a different brand they usually will just give you the check and you deal with the car yourself. You can likely return it early by paying all the payments due. But do realize that they will likely just roll in that money into your new lease.

So at most you’d pay an extra $500 if it is $0.25 a mile. The beauty of a lease is that you don’t have to keep the car after. I have a feeling you’ll lose far more going any other route this late in the game.

Op wants out of his lease early and is trying to justify it. The prudent financial decision is to keep the car to lease maturity, but prudent financial decisions and cars rarely go together or else we’d all be driving 7 year old accords and Camrys.

Should have waited to lease the BMW instead of leasing it now. Best case is to sell the civic and use the hrv until lease end. Then buy another used civic in the 2015 year model range as used car prices continue to drop

what about putting the Civic on Turo (since you own in and you have no restrictions on renting it out) and renting it out to cover the expenses of the last payments on the HRV?