Hi what’s the MF and residual value on an Audi Q7 premium 55 plus 2023 based on the northeast zip code 19131. Additionally, What’s a good cap cost off the MSRP ?
Having current, accurate information for residual value, money factor, and incentives is important in understanding your deal. As such, going directly to a source that has access to that data from the captive banks is your best option.
Rate Findr has that information, as they have direct access to it from the captive banks. It’s a tool on the Leasehackr Calculator, available to Super Supporters.
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Thank you . Is there any way I can access such a tool that is not lease hacker ?
Google search edmunds audi Q7 residual
I linked the edmunds post above
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I got it thank you for the share. How do I know I’m getting a good money factor from the dealer ?
You just need to ask them what mf they are using. It’s that simple. Some may try to avoid answering but that’s most likely because they’re marking it up.
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It’s well worth your time (if you haven’t already) to learn how to correctly enter a deal into the LH calculator.
If your payment output from the LH calculator using base MF is noticeably lower than what the dealer’s offer shows, chances are the MF is marked up.
If you then change the MF in your LH calculator to the max MF markup allowed by Audi (and leave everything else the same), and that fixes the discrepancy, that’s pretty much a confirmation.
Am I able to
Negotiable the money factor ? Some salesmen don’t really know the money factor number. Some say it’s determined by the manufacturer financial department and they have no control: how is this negligible? What percentage to ask for.
The car I’m looking for is a 2023 Audi Q7 55 premium plus.
Residual is 57%
12,000 miles per year
36 months lease
0 down
The MSRP on the car is $70,595 ( Edmund suggested paying $69,337)
What’s a GOOD acceptable selling price off the MSRP with the best APR . Credit score is Tier 1 (above 720)
The car I’m looking for is a 2023 Audi Q7 55 premium plus.
Residual is 57%
12,000 miles per year
36 months lease
0 down
The MSRP on the car is $70,595 ( Edmunds suggested paying $69,337)
What’s a GOOD acceptable selling price off the MSRP with the best APR that can fly by the dealer ? Credit score is Tier 1 (above 720)
Kindly let me know how what to offer thanks . Looking to purchase tomorrow
you can get a solid 5-6 % off, but numbers will look ugly. Probably in the 800-900 range with some money DAS
Are you firm on the q7 ?
They offered a $1500 Cosco Member discount. One dealer is offering $5000 off the msrp (dealership discount) another dealer negotiable ($3000 off msrp).
I’m open to an infiniti Qx60 to get a better monthly
Pay but want to try Audi for a better ride quality. What numbers can I get it down to with discount plus my offer price? The two dealers don’t seems to want to budge on anything less
Have you looked at the xc90 or mdx?
With 5k off, what was the offer?
Often no, it’s generally a store’s policy to either mark up or not, based on the way sales and finance profits are accounted for.
It won’t matter to your target deal if the MF is marked up, as long as you get a larger discount to compensate.
Of course, this presumes you have a firm grip on the numbers and know how what a good overall deal looks like, which is the critical part.
By the time you turn in your car, the lease has cost you a total of $X either way.
Ultimately your job as an informed consumer is simply to contain the cost of $X.
Hi thank you for your response. This is good into know. What about the residual rate % can the dealer adjust by a point to get a better monthly payment. In addition are fees negotiable like acquisition fee , doc fee etc ? Other than the sale price what else can I negotiate?
I test drive the xc90 the car interior is comfortable and smooth but Audi gives a better ride quality in performance. Are you suggesting this would be a good option. It’s slightly costly for the one I wanted recharge
I probably would suggest something that comes with the lowest cost. The Audi is going to expensive.
Checkout the marketplace and see what brokers are offering.
The dealer can not manipulate the rv. It’s a fixed value.
If they’re “changing” the rv by a point for a better payment, what they’re doing is going from a 12k mile per year lease to a 10k mile per year lease.
The MF is either “buy rate” (the lowest) or marked up. The lessor determines the buy rate and how much it can be marked up. Dealers don’t have the discretion to lower the buy rate.
(Note that credit scores can also increase the rate, whether it’s marked up or not.)
In reality these aren’t negotiable either.
Some lessors (MB, for example) allow the dealer to mark up the acquisition fee, but you’re not going to change store policy for your transaction.
As for doc fees, they’re not changing store policy for your deal either, but note:
I leased my current vehicle in Virginia, and I paid a $799 doc fee. If I’d leased it in my home state, the doc fee would have been more like $250. I needed to get an additional discount of $549 to make otherwise identical deals actually the same (which I did - and then some - which is why I drove the car home 
)…
Keep your eyes on total lease cost and compare deals that way.