There’s also more than one way to negotiate deals though? This isn’t the first time I’ve seen him say something on the lines of “negotiating based on DAS and monthly is stupid.” It’s a legitimate way of negotiating if you know what kind of deals other people are getting and whatnot.
Lol. I didn’t get my new BMW 330i deal ($46,250 MSRP, 1k DAS, $391/mo tax included, 10k miles, 36 months) arguing with dealerships about getting 1 more percent off the MSRP and fighting for the lowest MF possible.
Some people in here make it seem like it’s impossible to get a good deal only talking about DAS and monthlies with the dealership.
But how do people know that monthly and DAS is fair? If you see a really cheap national special, does that mean it’s good? If you see something really cheap it doesn’t automatically make it a ‘good deal’. The vice versa is also true, if something is a cut above the market for a deal, like @mllcb42’s palisade, just because it’s payment vs MSRP figure is askew doesn’t mean it’s a bad deal.
A broken clock is right twice a day, a blind man can find his way, it’s not the only way, but man does it make it easier coming in with a realistic expectation to what a good deal is versus shooting in the dark letting the dealer dictate the sale.
There is a significant difference between knowing all the lease details and then using that information to determine a target monthly/das and use that as the “language” of the negotiation and just blindly coming up with a target monthly/das based off of how they “feel” or what they think others got without context.
It will never be in your best interest to not do the due diligence and learn the details of the deal. Negotiate the deal however you want but not first learning the framework of the detail is pure laziness and intentional ignorance. The only person you’re hurting is yourself.
It doesn’t matter if the monthly payment number is lower due to a higher cap cost reduction, or there is no cap cost reduction and the monthly payment number is higher. In both situations you’re paying the same.
Pay no cap cost reduction and get a higher dealer discount before incentives (also, find out what incentives you qualify for).
Again with the critical misunderstanding of the difference between knowing the details and using monthly/das as your negotiating language and just blindly coming up with a monthly/das target without taking the time to figure out the basis of what gets you there.
No one is saying don’t negotiate off of monthly/das… They’re saying find out what that number should be based on the actual data rather than “well, I saw some other guy got something like this a month ago” that is what most monthly/das shopper do.
This thread is a perfect example. The op appears to be targeting a price off of what “feels” right. That is a very poor way to determine what to target and leaves no effective way to evaluate if the deal is any good or not.
Where are you getting this figure? Are you a broker/dealer?
Not really b/c the car literally just came out. One of the local brokers or dealers that posts here would have more info on that.
It is called “leasehackr forum.” Wouldn’t it be weird if the regulars weren’t circle jerky about the details? I mean, they don’t post here b/c they hate making deals or can’t stand vast amounts of data… That’d be like posting on a food forum, if you don’t care about what food tastes like.
None of the regular posters do that. They specifically state things like, “Paying a marked up MF might be fine, if you get a good discount, b/c the dealer’s got to make money somewhere. But you won’t know if the MF is marked up unless you actually do some research.”
You can get a 2021 on Rodo with a 8% discount. My local dealer was willing to match. I purchased a 2020 GLA loaner instead (old model), got 15% off plus $2250 in additional incentives.
The one listed by @AutoCompanion is for a 2020 GLA (unless I missed something). The 2021 has been completely re-designed. Are you referring to MY 2020 or 2021?
Considering your only “contribution” to the forum is just to argue ideology and waste everyone’s time, I have no problem stopping all of your attempts to derail other people’s threads. @kennyzz1
Just to add some good vibes to this thread, I’ll spoon feed you. What’s the discount, the rebate, the money factor, and the residual value? Once you have those, you need to plug those into the calculator. As @z0lt3c said, shoot for a 10% discount but be willing to settle for 8 or 9, and there is a $500 rebate. Accord to Edmunds, on a 36 month 10k mile/year lease, You have a MF of 0.00103 and a residual of 60%.
Calc if 8% discount @ 8% tax rate- $439/month and 3k upfront:
Calc if 10% discount-$412/month and 3k upfront:
The difference between the two is roughly $25 a month.
I got a similar sense when I started looking into the numbers and asking around.
I too was looking at the 2021 GLA, but now I don’t think it’s worth it. It’s a re-design so it may have some technical problems at launch and the deals/incentives/discounts are not very good.
I went test drive GLA today and it is not as good as I expected. I also drove a GLB and it is slightly better but I don’t like its boxed design. Though the salesperson is so nice and I think I will lease something through him. Just don’t know what yet Good luck!
GLA 2021 4MATIC
36 months, 10k miles
MSRP: $43,505
saving from dealer: $3,005
fleet program rebate: $1,000
trade-in value: $5,000
MF: 0.00184
Monthly payment: $426 with 0 money down; $393 for $1000 put down; $500 if no trade-in 0 money down
Good luck!