I’m just trying to determine what a solid deal on the car is…
I don’t want to be offered a great deal on day 1 and think that I can do better when I can’t and waste two weeks trying.
Conversely, I don’t want to be offered a terrible deal, that I think is a good deal, and accept it.
When I say I’d be happy to pay $900, what I mean is that I think $900 is a great deal on a 110K car…Just in this case apparently, it’s not as people are getting way less. I just want to make sure I’m getting a good deal.
I’m just a bit confused because I’m being told that 20% is a solid deal on a new 2023 SUV, while at the same time also seeing a 2022 loaner sedan at 20% also being called a solid deal. So I’m just not sure what percent exactly I should be getting on a 2023 SUV when it’s new and when it’s a loaner too.
I apologize for asking so many questions and taking all of your times. You’ve all been very helpful and I truly appreciate you all.
You are taking it too seriously. Even if you miss this deal, more deals would pop up later. Just test drive the car, and see what the best deal you can get on it. If you think paying $900 is alright, then go for it. Otherwise, don’t regret passing on this deal while you look for better numbers.
It would be different for different people. E.g. for me, depending on my needs, I would not spend more than $600 on this car. And I am not willing to do the legwork for this car either. For other people, it is worth it to spend $1k for this car and do the legwork to get this deal.
You are getting too bogged down in the weeds with theoretical scenarios.
20% off on new/loaner SUV/Sedan is a solid deal. Period.
If no dealer offered that, you can either give up or lower your target. Important thing is to not get angry at yourself because somebody else did better
I understand that. Not looking to do the best. Just looking to do solid.
At 15% off, a one pay comes out to $19K. At 20% a one pay comes to $13K. That’s a 6K difference. Just wanted to confirm that 20% was possible before I continued looking and spending time.
Was asking about the loaner because if the loaner would have a higher amount of discounts on it, id consider it. But if the hypothetical line is 20% for both, then I might as well just find a new one for the 20%.
This confuses me tho. All the brokers I see only get 10% off and have $900 payments. I don’t see any of the brokers getting anywhere near 20% off. Not even 15%…
I understand. So I guess I’ll ask some dealers and see what’s the best that I can do. Taking into account that 20% seems to be a solid deal while 15% is average.
I got 16% off msrp of $122750 2023 eqs 450 4matic and all the incentives of $12.5k ($7500, $1500 ev, $3500 affinity). Effective overall discount was ~26% off. Mf was .00238 (small markup).
Norcal dealership
I am happy but my wife thinks I am crazy impulsive.
Just pay whatever price you’re happy with, close this page, and don’t visit it again. That way you won’t be kicking yourself if someone gets better pricing than you, because someone will always get better pricing than you.
Very close to 20 on a 450+ RWD SUV happened in SoCal last week and @achahil28 reported 22% on a 4MATIC in PNW. I think there’s more room in these cars than we’re imagining…
There seems to be a few cliffs. Some won’t discount anything. Some 3-4%. Then some will quickly drops to like 15%. At that point its a grind to squeeze 1-2% more or it drops to 20% (I haven’t gotten to 20%).
@spockvr6 made some good deductions based on what he heard from a dealer that might explain these two buckets – the 0-4% crowd may be lacking incentives that dealers get for hitting certain monthly targets on EVs, where the 15+% dealers have hit the targets and are therefore able to discount higher.
This is somewhat conjecture-based, but based on what a sales person told me yesterday about the difference between a deal I was trying to get and the deal that they could do, with the only difference being one of the cars was a 22 loaner and the other wasn’t…
They mentioned that there was a $15,672 difference between the 22 loaner deal they previously did and what they could do on a 23 new. That is a very specific number, and a course I’m sure there are some other variables mixed in there, but I think the main point is that there is probably something under/around that amount available due to a car being a previous loaner/demo. A different sales person confirmed to me that in order for them to obtain the right down associated with a loaner, they must have the car in loaner fleet for 90 days. The miles must remain under 10,000. I am not privy to the write down formula of course, but he indicated the best combination is 90 days and the minimum miles (likely due to RV impact… but I also wonder if they would be willing to discount a higher mileage car more as well).
Even if you miss this deal, more deals would pop up later. Just test drive the car, and see what the best deal you can get on it. If you think paying $900 is alright, then go for it. Otherwise, don’t regret passing on this deal while you look for better numbers.
