Looking at getting a BMW loaner and the quote is decent off MSRP but .00196 MF because “our finance dept. doesn’t work for free.”
What’s the best way to tackle this? I want to get a few more % off MSRP and also get down to buyrate. Where should I start? I’m thinking I start with selling price then once we get where I want to be then I say I won’t pay more than buyrate? Worried then they won’t do the selling price, but don’t want to juggle too many things in the negotiation at the same time. Tier 1+ credit (~825) so that’s not an issue.
Related Q: looking at getting it shipped. Should I figure about 1k to get it shipped and bring that up after the numbers are worked out?
If they won’t budge on MF, ask for more $$$ off the sale price of the car to compensate. Or ask for more money off the sale price of the car and negotiate to a middle ground - like .00176.
We can’t help you with shipping costs without knowing (1) where the car is located and (2) where you’re shipping it to.
My guess is shipping will be somewhere around $1500, without knowing where on the East Coast. There are some common trucking routes from major cities that might cost less.
If they don’t know you’re from out of state, you should let them know now - they may not be willing to do an out of state transaction.
Pretty BS in my opinion. F/I Makes their money on the products more than anything. IMO You need to get a discount of minimum $1,400 to make up for the mark up. I would settle for an additional $2,000 off OR tell them to sell you a product (Lease protection, upgraded maintenance, tire/wheel) at cost to make up for it if that’s something you are interested in…
Is the car listed on their site or on autotrader? If so, you can usually access the free CarFax. The report will show when the vehicle was listed for sale (it may have multiples but you can figure out the most recent legit one).
If it’s a 2017, lease support ends at the start of April I believe. Just tell them if you won’t match the MF of every other BMW dealership around, then they can keep the car and good luck getting it moved in the next 3 weeks. This works especially well if they have had the car listed for a long time already. “Are you a car dealer or a car collector?”
Also, I find that phone calls work a lot better than emails. If you get a dealer on the phone you don’t like, keep calling back and saying you are a new customer until you get someone you like talking to, or when the phone-answer-receptionist asks to direct your call, ask which sales managers are working, and pick one you haven’t talked to. Once you express some knowledge and some legit interest on the phone in making a purchase, they are more keen to play ball. Some salespeople have access to the MF and the finance stuff and some don’t. I was fortunate recently to deal with a finance manager on the phone directly and she gave me all the details and ran the numbers real time. Then I had her email the quote so I could check over everything myself. Insist on that type of service. It made the deal soooo easy and pleasant. As my colleague recently said “I am allowing you to make money off me.”
