Looking to Lease 2019 Jaguar F-Type V6 - Beginners Questions!

Ask the Hackrs
, ,
1

Hi All,

Been lurking for a few weeks (just made my account) but first post, so please point out any more info I should include or if anything should be asked elsewhere.

Looking to lease (this would be my first lease) a convertible 2019 (or 2018 if I could find a deal on one) F-Type V6 340HP(or potentially the R-Dynamic V6 380HP AWD if I could get a really good deal) in Northern Virginia, zip 22201. For reference I specced out both on the Jaguar site (for 2020, MSRP should be a bit lower for 2019 models with similar configs) - 84.5K for the 340HP and $101K for the R-Dynamic AWD. Both had about 10K in options. More config info at the end of post if needed.

My questions are:

1 - What’s a good % off for a 2019 F-Type right now(realize the beginning of summer is probably not the best time to buy a convertible)? Based on what I’ve seen numbers vary wildly - I’ve seen 20-30K off of a $100K MSRP (2017 selling in Sept-Oct of 2017 I believe) and a $75K MSRP selling for “only” about $5k off, so would like a rough range if at all possible.

2 - What are is current/expected Residual and MF for an F-Type (I saw someone posting in a thread the current week’s when asked a few weeks ago but I can’t find the thread anymore) in zip 22201? Would expect to do a 36/10k, but willing to look at others if residual/MF was better.

3 - Can anyone clarify how car sales tax in Virginia works? As far as I can tell the full amount needs to be paid upfront, which seems kind of crazy. Is there any wiggle room with this (roll it into monthly payment, have dealer pay for some of it, etc.) or is that just how leasing in Virginia works?

4 - Anyone who DOES own an F-Type and happens to live an area that gets occasional snow - Did you get the AWD model and is it really worth an extra $15K (realize there’s more than that different between the two models I listed,but that’s the main difference I care about)? Seems hard to justify to me.

Config info - Putting MSRP and two options (Please point out if a specific option I list makes it harder to get a deal because of rarity, etc.), along with link, I want below:

2020 F-Type Convertible 340HP ( https://build.jaguar/676F8452) - Base $74200.00, Total $84495.00

  • Performance seats Pimento Windsor leather facings with Ebony stitch and Windsor leather interior (SDL) - $3270.00
  • Portofino Blue - $710.00

2020 F-Type Convertible 340HP ( ** https://build.jaguar/6C650DD4**) - Base $90400.00, Total $101035.00

  • Performance seats Pimento Windsor leather facings with Ebony stitch and Windsor leather interior (SDL) - $3270.00
  • Portofino Blue - $710.00

Again, please let me know if there’s any more info I should include or if any of the questions posted should go elsewhere.

THANK YOU in advance for reading and responding, really appreciate the help navigating my first lease!

2

Ask in Edmunds forums for RV, MF and incentives for your zip.

3

VA sales tax can be rolled into the lease payment. Edmunds is your go-to for MF and RV as Max said

4

Thanks to both of you, just posted over at Edmunds.

Is it unrealistic to expect much of a discount until around the September timeframe on 2019s?

BoardWalkNJ - the tax can be rolled into the lease? Good to know, I had thought I had read it couldn’t be.

Thanks Again!

5

Yes it can be. @adamcar is in Virginia and rolled the tax into his lease last March. LEASED: 2018 Buick Encore Preferred MSRP $25,360 $104.78 15k Zero down

6

You can cap basically anything as long as the bank accepts it.

7

As far as discount goes, mine was about 25% off MSRP when I got it last year. While that won’t be doable anymore, I think anything less than 15% wouldn’t make it worth even considering. Especially with the terrible residuals now

8

Don’t forget about property tax. Like others said - you can roll anything in, including sales tax.

9

I can comment on the AWD. It makes a huge difference. I’m in the North East for reference. The car comes with Pirelli P zeros which are summer tires. I strongly caution you from driving in the snow with summer tires…it’s basically a slip 'n slide with or without the AWD, and it’s somewhat dangerous, especially if you aren’t really used to snow driving. I got caught in one snowstorm, and the only reason I didn’t need a tow was because of AWD.

I was in a similar position as you, where I was unsure if the AWD was worth it. Here’s why it matters and why it’s worth it. If you have RWD, when you get stuck, or you momentarily pause (stop sign, red light, etc), and there is snow on the ground, you are pretty much not going to be able to move again on summer tires in the snow because you have no momentum and no traction. With AWD, you likely will be able to move again (because normally at least 1 of the tires will have traction) and that will be the difference between you getting home, and you having to call for a tow. Who knows if the tow truck will take care not to scratch the paint when they mount your car?

In any situation, when October hits, you should also absolutely pay for the winter tires. I didn’t do it last winter (very foolish), and I promised myself I would this October coming up. I could only find them made to fit this car from Pirelli (Sottozero), I think from tirerack’s website, can’t remember. It’s around $1500 I believe for all 4 tires. It sounds expensive, but if you lose traction because of inappropriate tires, and you ding/dent your car/another car, or get hurt, the $1500 seems like a drop in the bucket to drive responsibly especially after you’ve spent a lot on this car. You are actually supposed to change over to winter tires as soon as the temperature is below 45 degrees F. It isn’t even just about the snow. Summer/all season tires harden up below 45 degrees, traction goes down, and ware on the tires greatly increases.

Living in a place that gets some snow…I would only go for RWD if you promise yourself never to take this car out in the snow…but to me…it is sad to own this car and to limit yourself. Go for the AWD!

One more tip. Don’t be cheap on the driver assistance features in this car you can pay for. It’s my opinion that you should only buy this car with a rearview camera, front and rear parking sensors, and blind spot assist. I also greatly appreciate the self-park feature for parallel parking (you don’t want to scratch/dent your wheel rims). Lane departure warning isn’t necessary (you can pass on that one). The car has massive blind spots, and you’ll need the above to help you navigate safely on the road and in parking situations.

It sounds like you are set on the convertible; personally, I like the look of the coupe a lot more, but more importantly to me, the convertible’s trunk is about half as small as the coupe’s. And I couldn’t imagine having a smaller trunk than I already have.

My opinion is that you should wait until December when they will want to make sure they have all the 2019s off the lot. In Dec 2018, their incentives for financing were much better than leasing.

The difference between 2017s and 2018s is basically just a better infotainment system and better/cooler looking LED headlights on the 2018. The difference between 2018/2019/2020 is almost imperceptible and is mostly about the way options are packaged and a very slight change to bumper look that doesn’t change the way you feel about the car (and the steadily increasing price of the car as model year goes up).

Hope this helps a little.

10

Residual is ~60% on the new F-Types depending on mileage. MF is crap.

11

All - Thanks again for the continuing answers, all very helpful!

Nicecar91 - Thanks so much for the very detailed answers! You’ve given me a lot to consider regarding AWD. Knew about getting the assistance features due to blindspots on the F-Type but always good to get confirmation from an owner. I’m concerned about the trunk size as well but REALLY want a convertible - and there really isn’t much choice in this market segment. I’ve looked at the F-Type, Boxster, and the new BMW Z4, which is basically it in this segment.

Again, thanks all! Also a mod over at the Edmunds forums posted the MF/RV/incentive numbers so I figured I’d share:

340
.00001 and 59%
.00011 and 60%
.00021 and 57%

380
.00001 and 55%
.00001 and 55%
.00011 and 52%
$4225 incentive

$1500 spring bonus on both

12

Oh and to give context, each of the lines (under 340 and 380) are 33/36/39 month terms.