Dealer website. The first dealer said they dont have anymore GT-Lines available so I went to a second dealer who said yeah sure we’ll match it come one down and then when I arrive it’s a GT Line Premium. SMH. A $1500 difference in MSRP yet a $200+ difference in monthly price.
Actually they do that for all warranty work. If you come in with a ‘unprovable’ issue, they will charge.
But it does sound like you are leaning to selling the car. That changes your question.
boy, let’s see.
- Buy it out. It is cheap, PLUS, even if you decide to trade/sell it, you are better off having the title in hand because most places won’t buy out a Kiayundai lease. You don’t need to tie yourself to another of the same brand AND you can sell to the highest bidder, thereby separating the deals, which is usually the best route anyway.
- Honestly, if you are going to just get another Forte, why switch?
- As for warranty stuff, they say that but it almost never happens unless you really do have a problem that can’t be replicated. Because I always fear this excuse myself, I often will video the issue before I even bring it in.
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Thinking of financing the buyout. Let the dealer handle all the paperwork including DMV and then once that is done I’d buy the car out completely in full with early prepayment. I dont want to deal with the hassle of paperwork and DMV.
Afterwards depending on the market I keep the car unless a crazy deal becomes available and I still have equity being that the inflation bubble hasnt bursted.
Great point on #1
Considered switching for the short term payments instead of dishing out $11k. Dealing with the problem 3 years later.
Great point on videotaping!
Use this link to finance instead of going into the dealer.
For example Lightstream will send you a check, and you make a check to Kia and you get a title in the mail and DMV will bill you for the rest.
They will probably tack on thousands for this “favor” they’re doing you.
Is that worth saving a trip to the DMV?
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Wait what do you mean tack on thousands?? Financing a lease means I pay whatever 2-8% APR they charge. Makes 1-3payments and once my docs are in hand I terminate early and pay full (no prepayment penalty in NYS).
Which is just an ad.
From now on your operating principles are:
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Ignore all forms of ads. Just assume they are bait and switch.
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The only real prices are those on the LH Marketplace and Shared Deals sections. With an obligatory disclaimer that some of those cannot be replicated.
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Delivery fee, prep fee, reconditioning fee, etc etc. more and more creative names for just more fees.
They would charge all these fees simply to finance my buyout payment on my lease?
The 10-yr part is “just” for the powertrain, right?
I don’t see an issue w/ this, personally.
Yes and the 5yr warranty for everything else. It’s only been 3 for OP so they got lots of warranty left.
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This is the lease deal. It passes the 1% test but leasehacker score is somewhere between 7.2 and 7.8 I believe. Thoughts?
Did you say 1%? Oh dear! Call out the Hounds!
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Leasehackr says if its 1% of MSRP then its a good deal. 2% and run away. Am I understanding this wrong?
Am I understanding this wrong?
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I will PM you