Been in the market for a while - a few months. Emailing dozens of dealers - in state in WA, out of state in the adjacent areas (ID, MT, OR, CA) and some in TX (travel often for our rental props), but just getting essentially trash quotes.
That can’t possibly be an accurate description by the dealer, those have to be aftermarket add-ons (just like stated on the screen). Or maybe a combination of them both? You can always ask for a breakdown to see exactly what that is made up of.
Yeah, I was shopping for a Vistiq last year and ended up taking over a Lyriq lease from a member here instead.
I don’t know if it’s because they are Cadiliac dealers and used to dealing with a less informed population or what, but my 2 in-person interactions and ~12 attempts at online quotes were a complete waste of time. In fact, almost all of my emails to sales managers etc went not just unanswered, but unacknowledged. I was listing specific on-lot stock #s and offering ballpark numbers with plenty of room for them to come back with a proposal, nada. The couple of responses back I got were absurd numbers at first, which turned into just bad numbers after a bit of conversation.
I’ve never had that much trouble buying a vehicle before. The lease takeover I got was dramatically cheaper than anything these dealers would have offered me. Next time around I’ll focus on the brokers here, at least for Cadiliac.
Oh, but to answer your question, $7k dealer fees is bananas. Down here in South Florida most of them are $2-2500 which is also absurd.
There is no such MF. The protocol for MF’s is .00XXX. Send that MF to a dealer and you lose credibility. All data and calculations must be spot on, not estimates. Ball Park doesn’t cut it. Also, I think you need a little more detail than what you’re providing. Take the time and do the work and you’ll be rewarded.
Get rid of both “you haves" - they know exactly what they have and the programs. Just specify the vehicle. Shed the dispo fee as it has no effect on your offer.
Thank them and state that you’re ready, willing and able to sign the deal ASAP if they accept your terms.
I used the MF listed on calculator - hence why there’s so many digits. I just inputted in calculator - and I got that long string of MF, so shorten it?
I did qualify my email - by stating that I will sign if they can match the numbers.
The MSRP: what they list on their website.
Selling price: what they list on their website - with ‘discount available to anyone’ and excluding cash purchase discount.
So if they advertised $55K MSRP, $5K discount for everyone, and $1K special cash discount, selling price on my offer will be $50K (vs $49K). I hope that makes sense.
I did not break out incentive totals.
I also called out no dealer add ons like VIN etching, etc - but almost always have quotes including those.
My successful offer to the first dealer I contacted included the MF exactly as shown on Ratefinder (with that many digits)… less the MF discount for one-pay, and then the actual one-pay MF (which the LH calculator strangely converts to the right number of digits).
I noticed this later, but it didn’t impact how my offer was perceived at all. If the whole thing had been a mess, sure. It would have gone into the trash.
I’m sure that several dealers would have questioned the customer’s level of knowledge with an MF exceeding 5 digits. I know of no fund provider that would accept such an MF. So, why not do it correctly right from the very start?
