This should help but again, this is SoCal:
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I would rather get an EQB, EQE or a Lyriq for that price.
You say you want 5000 off MSRP, they then give you a payment of ~$125 off your original so $422 or so.
Supplier is useless here, it’s not supported per your pictures (MSRP = Supplier Price), you can also sign up for the GM Card at the dealership and that gives another $500 off I believe.
Edit : You say you want $10000 off ($250 off) and then they might meet you in the middle 
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Thank you so much for the explanations. I’m very new to this. I assume I’m shooting for the lowest “Effective Monthly Cost”, which it does seem to favor 24m slightly in my calculator.
As for the general process, do you typically come out with a “% off MSRP” first and send emailed proposals/offers to dealerships, or try to get an offer from them first, and then work your way down using calculators to get a clear picture of the behind-the-scene calculations? I figured there might be threads already dedicated to discussing this process, but couldn’t find any. I did watch the Leasing 101s.
It’s on the main page of LH, it’s a prenegotiated deal for Southern California
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To get the “5000” number, I assume I should research forum threads to get my benchmarks? It would be lovely if Rate Findr has a tool that shows the most recent concensus on a model/trim.
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I agree. I dont get why they’re not willing to budge on the selling price.
Makes sense. I told the next dealer no supplier. Overwhelmed LOL.
The friend of mine keeps telling me they’re selling it at 54,595, and I said you guys aren’t giving me anything off besides rebates.
You could probably get a better number than $5000, I just went to the prenegotiated deal and 5k popped out. So that means if you are willing to sweat it, 5k should be doable. But MSRP is a no go here.
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Got it, thanks!
Don’t do anything until you have a calculation worked out for what your target deal is.
That’s a good point. I will go into the calc and play.
Would you be willing to look at the calc with the deal they gave me?
That’s my first time using it LOL. Wasn’t sure if I should put the destination charge in the selling price. Also, wasn’t sure with the incentives.
@forbs I have been reaching out to numerous dealers around me, and no one is willing to budge on the selling price. Kind of odd. Guess I need to expand my horizons with the dealers
Here is another propsal that I got from another dealership…
495.70 Due at signing; 495.70 a month, 24/10k.
Still not a good discount off.
You should move to a model of making proposals or counter proposals. In both of these instances you now have all the fees, etc on paper that you would need to make an apples to apples offer with real dealer discount applied. Use the calculator to construct a deal with approximately 10% or $5,000 worth of dealer discount on a Blazer and tell them that you will sign today at that payment number/due at signing/One Pay amount. Otherwise, thank them for their time. They will either play ball, tell you to pound sand or counter your offer. You absolutely do want to use Supplier if you have access to it. There is no set “Supplier Price” on the GM EVs at the moment. What Supplier DOES offer is a set amount of a special rebate that you need the code to unlock (It’s called a Supplier EV allowance). That allowance ($1,000 on the Blazer) can stack with dealer discount and the other incentives you may qualify for.
I live in AL so I am definitely not getting any state run incentives and these quotes you’re getting are really just bad.
With minimal effort I was able to get a quote for $297/Mo 0DAS on a 2LT Blazer. One-Pay just over $6300. That’s a 24/15k with $2500 in rebates. The dealer had it marked down $6500 from MSRP.
The dealer I am working with now I am looking at $5400 for a One-Pay on a 24/15k Equinox 2RS.
You just have to keep looking, there are plenty of dealers with these vehicles that want them gone. 2025s are on the way and most of these cars have sat on lots for quite a while. I’d say your biggest issue is the dealers aren’t offering nearly what they should as a discount from MSRP.
What you need to do is come up with an offer and just send it to dealers. 90% of them will tell you to look elsewhere but 10% will counter, or even better accept. I also occasionally used quotes I found here as leverage, most dealers just said that’s for a different state so goodluck but some genuinely tried to compete. That’s how I got my first sub $6000 one-pay quote for the Blazer.
Also just from experience, if a dealer is confused about any rebate(including supplier), that’s a bad sign.
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