That doesn’t really make sense. With a low RV, you are paying more depreciation during the lease.
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I would buy CPO
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That is definitely an option, just covering all bases before we pull the trigger. Lower payments would at the moment with the little one starting daycare, us buying a house etc.
More risky too in case of accident. Ideally you want cheapest lease possible with beefed up RV and that way if you do want one to keep for a while find a CPO same as what you had and buy it cheaper than RV would have been.
Depends on the discounts/incentives available
I fully understand. Instead of luxury 3 row SUV’s you may want to consider something more reasonably priced too. The Subaru Ascent may be worth a look.
The projected resale and reliability of the Hyundai and Kia sisters are higher than the Atlas. But if you want European (which sounds like it) then go with, but resale takes a hit.
Kia Sorento has high reliability and theyre great deals on them and a full loaded one is pretty premium.
A new Tahoe the reliability is very poor (but residual is high). Plus they’re about to release their new model based on the new Silverado which will ride better.
Subaru Ascents are very strong in resale and reliability and they have a Turbo 4 now.
Mazda CX-9 is the sleeper choice and have a good predicted reliability for the more recent ones.
But get what you like cause youre the one driving it not us.
Check out this for the 3 row SUV ratings (Just a reference, I understand opinions):
https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/rankings/suvs-with-3-rows
And if I were you I’d visit Barnes and Nobles and look at the ConsumerReports Magazine for their reliability for any model you are considering. This would be great if you plan on keeping it for the long haul since its listed out by year.
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When one leases with the intent to buy, which I don’t really understand, you automatically are behind by whatever the acquisition fee is. You’re also likely to end up with nearly a decade of payments, unless you do a very short term on the loan. Even with a 3-year lease and a 3-year note, you’re already out of warranty on many (most?) vehicles.
Put me firmly in the buy CPO camp, if you’re married to buying. Let some other schmuck take the initial depreciation hit.
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That is also what I am trying to say, with a beefed up RV, you are most likely not going to buy your vehicle if you can get a CPO with less miles for the same price, or less, but that’s not what OP is talking about doing.
Definitely agree with you here. We can swing either but want to be smart with our money too. Unfortunately the wife likes the finer things 
Once in a blue moon, the lease incentive will actually be bigger than the purchase incentive. I’m pretty sure I just read an example here recently maybe on a minivan (?). That would be your ideal scenario. Lease for a low cap cost, then buy out.
If you have the float to buy out the car before lease end, you may want to try this: have them jack up the MF super high and reduce the selling price as low as it can go. If you can waive the acquisition fee for a higher MF, do so. You want as much of the monthly payment to be interest as possible. Then after the minimum required payments (1-3?), buy out the car. Your buyout will be lower than with a normal leasehackr type deal if you did it this way since your initial cap cost would be lower than on a standard MF type deal.
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I agree with you wholeheartedly. I wanted to throw this out to you guys to see if there was any way that a lease to buy would be a better scenario than just financing from the beginning, which it looks like it in most cases wouldn’t be.
On brands with gap insurance included in the lease, that is one of the advantages of leasing first. You’d need to buy additional gap insurance on a traditional purchase loan.
Unless you made a reasonable (~15%) down payment . . .
Which if one were taking advantage of a manufacturer’s 0% purchase finance rate, wouldn’t make sense. Too many variables to generalize!
This reminds me of my buddy whose wife was obsessed with having a low monthly payment on her new Civic. She wanted to put a good chunk down to have a payment in the $200s. It was a 0% interest loan. He was an accountant, but gave up trying to convince her otherwise (she was a Humanities major). You know, happy wife…
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Goalpost moved.
If one’s plan is to buy the car, and the choice is either put a small down payment to avoid being upside down in case of total loss, or pay gap insurance, why would you ever pay gap insurance? Doesn’t a small down make more sense than buying a policy you hope to never use?
Well, OP is looking at a Q7 or XC90, so 15% down is like $9K. And I’m still not sure that’s enough to avoid being underwater. So it just depends on a buyer’s liquidity and risk tolerance.
Def not enough especially on anything over a 48mo loan.