I4 lease deal from WA

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Hey everyone,

I’m trying to verify if this lease quote I got from a BMW dealer makes sense, and hoping someone can help double-check my numbers.

Vehicle: 2025 BMW i4 xDrive40
MSRP: $67,495
Selling Price: $53,245
Rebate: $7,500
Acquisition Fee: $925
Residual: $36,447.30 (53.9%)
Money Factor (MF): 0.0009 (dealer confirmed multiple times)
Term: 36 months / 10k miles
Tax: 10.3% (WA state)
Quoted Monthly Payment: $709.53 (with $0 down)


Using the standard lease formula (depreciation + rent charge), I’m getting something like $419/month with tax.

Here’s my math:

  • Depreciation: ($46,670 - $36,447.30) / 36 = ~$283.96
  • Rent: ($46,670 + $36,447.30) × 0.0009 = ~$74.40
  • Base: $358.36
  • Taxed: $358.36 × 1.103 = ~$394.97
    So total: ~$419/month if a bit more is rolled in.

Dealer insists the quote uses 0.0009 MF, but I can’t make the $709/month number make sense.
Could there be some hidden cap cost add-ons I’m missing? Or am I just calculating this wrong?
If my calculation is wrong , is it a good deal?

Thanks in advance — would love to hear your thoughts!

Is it possibly a used or a corp car that doesn’t qualify for conventional leasing and all incentives? Makes no sense otherwise… not even close!

IDK if they’re hidden or the button pusher you’re dealing with can’t explain

What’s your ACC (adjusted cap cost) number?

If you’re rolling everything in it will include selling price less rebate plus:
Tax on the rebate (10.3% of $7,500)
Reg (pretty high in WA afaik… ~$900?)
Acq fee
Doc fee
Etc

Post your best attempt at the LH calculator here.

Maybe the selling price includes “all savings” which would include all rebates.

I’m sure the dealer confirmed the .0009 MF, but did you? Ask the dealer for a comprehensive worksheet that includes all relevant data similar to the one below…

You must vet all data. Next, craft a lease proposal (example below- the round peg, round hole won’t work) and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they’re often Mickey D order takers and lack knowledge.

All numbers should be accurate otherwise, you’ll lose credibility. Negotiate via phone/email. Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as lease amortization methodology and excess wear/tear criteria. If all is as agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign asap. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.

If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!

Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on this website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, be sure to always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.

??? Let me know.

Hi Im from WA and have question about residual rate.


From quote residual value was 54% but lease work sheet residual rate is 52.45%. Which one is correct one? Is it possible to ask dealer to change residual value as 54% from lease work sheet?

It’ll be 113 years next week since the Titanic sank and you’re still busy trying to rearrange the chairs. The 1.55% RV hit is either due to it being a loaner or this dealer not going thru normal BMWFS channels. Either way, these numbers should’ve made you run away looong time ago. Just move on, talk to a broker or look at private transfers if you can’t do any better yourself. This deal is HORRENDOUS!

Appreciate the feedback.

I actually reached out to a few brokers already, and surprisingly, the deals they offered were pretty much in line with what I got from the dealer.

Also, considering the taxes and fees here in Washington (like the 10.6% sales tax + RTA), it seems like there’s just not much room to get significantly better numbers unless I go out of state.

Definitely keeping my options open, but it feels like I’ve already hit the ceiling for this region right now.

Brokers here on LH? Well, this is not a $700/mo car for sure.

You have $6K in taxes and fees not included in you depreciation calculation.

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