How does a "good" lease compare to buying and holding for 10 years?

So you can be out of debt before you die.

Then you can average one “bad repair” a year and break even, which is an unlikely frequency for a “bad repair” if you’ve purchased a vehicle with a strong history of reliability.

This is because of all of the money that they waste on everything else, like new phones, trips to Disney World, tattoos, NFL jerseys, surgery for 12-year-old cats, etc. And buying (or leasing) too much car.

It doesn’t make more sense for most scenarios if people buy reasonable cars with good long-term reliability.

A fixed budget comes at a cost. Like getting a pony for Christmas.

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I got my 2017 volt for $279/mo with absolutely zero out of pocket(thanks to this site) .I fill up my gas tank once every two months. To me leasing is a no brainer if you can be under $300/mo. Even if over a ten year period you spend $2,000 more leasing over buying that is not enough money for me to deal with the unknowns that exists with owning a car that is several years old.

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The math works in buying favor for most cars…the exception being low end evs in states with big post sale rebates…CA, CO…

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I recently put MBI coverage (“extended warranty”) on my 2011 INFINITI. I bought the “Easy Street” coverage shown here: https://www.penfed.org/auto/extended-warranty

I bought this from PenFed for $1,495, but not before checking with my INFINITI dealer, who reported positive experiences with the company that underwrites the coverage (Route 66).

The plan covers 5 more years/100,000 total vehicle miles (car had 74,000 when I added the coverage), and it’s comprehensive (main exemption is the navigation system, which was optional coverage that I declined).

So I’m covered against most repairs for 5 years on a 9-year-old car for $24.92 a month.

Unlike the original plan I bought from INFINITI when the vehicle was new, this coverage has no deductible.

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I lease cars in the 35-40k range. I figure it costs me about $1000 per year more to drive a new car.

Never having to go to a mechanic again, combined with safety features and tech make it a slam dunk.

And of course I get the new car smell.

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depending on the deal you’re getting, that smell is either farts or plastics :grinning:

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The repair costs on my 9-year-old used car are comparable to sales tax on a $300/month lease payment.

Plus I’m not making the lease payment.

And I’m paying insurance on a 9-year-old car.

And I have a fixed-cost budget.

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My insurance actually went up on my last car in the final year I had it (7th yr)…

insurance always goes up due to “market adjustment”. It’s a fact of life.

All of our policies (except umbrella) went up last year compared to the year before… significantly… so I re-shopped it all and saved ~20%.

Being “bored with a car” doesn’t make it a better financial decision to lease vs buy. It’s a financial choice you’re making to lease a new car every couple years. That doesn’t make it the best one.

The least fiscally responsible issue there is replacing the car every few years rather than leasing vs buying.

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It’s the best financial choice “for me”…

…best choice…or financial choice…but no way “best financial choice”.
If you wanna prove it to us do it with numbers…we can all understand numbers…words play…not so much.

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https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1SPer0ruhzfScKOfrMYMSCeUtmY8a6Ntg

Here is an excel model to play around with. It’s very situationally dependent.

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I’m not sure where you’re getting the word play. Perhaps go re-read the “for me” part again?

I lease cars for $300/mo for 24 months so I don’t have to deal with this…reliability is worth the extra $1000/yr, if it’s actually that much. Waiting for things to break so they’re covered under warranty isn’t worth it. And wear and tear parts aren’t covered. Brakes rotors, ball joint, control arms, cat converters, tires aren’t cheap. If you have time to work on your own car then buying exponentially makes more sense. Most people are too busy

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As an update I managed to get a Honda Accord sport for $255/mo with tax included. Paying only $700 in fees.

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The insurance costs do not necessarily go down on an older car. The insurance on my 2017 Audi A4 cost less than the insurance on my wife’s 2012 Camry. I assume the lower rates on the Audi were due to it having more safety features.

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I agree. My insurance prices have not changed much, new or used.

Anyone with a family should always have full tort insurance, however. If you can’t afford that, then you shouldn’t be driving a new car.