$0 down would be $575-$595/month. Doesn’t seem great. I’d like to try and find this for $425/month and I know others have found it before. Would going for a shorter term possibly lower the payment due to a higher residual after 36 months. Does anyone have a Ram dealer or contact they can recommend to get this done? Can someone enter this into the lease calculator for me and tell me whether it’s a good deal? I can’t figure it out.
I’m a noob so I’m taking a stab at your calculator. Consider my link a starting point. Generally, the higher theleasehackr score, the better. As far as monthly is concerned, from what I learned, you want to start negotiating the selling price. If you go for a target “monthly” they can tweak the numbers a ton of different ways to get a monthly you desire.
I’m in that same predicament at the moment lols. Good luck! Calculator Link
Also, there’s plenty of links to help you calculate a target selling price. The numbers from this post are kind of off for what I would say my personal research shows but it’s all dependent on the vehicle, the market, and the area you’re in. I would search on NADAguides for the invoice and there are some forums on Edmunds where you can ask for any incentives on the Laramie. Looks like you got the 50% residual and MF already so that’s a start.
Keep in mind is looks like the average dealer holdback is about 3% so use that when calculating your lease tgt price.
And again, I’m pretty noob but it’s what I’ve learned the past few days. Just trying to give back what I THINK I learned lols and save you the back and forth.
In that case, step 1 is to stop talking to dealers altogether until you’ve read through all the leasing101 articles at the top, the calculator FAQ, and done a bunch of research into comparable deals.
Take it step by step and you can do it. If you’re interested in leasing and learning along the way it’ll be worth it, at least so you aren’t taken for a ride by the dealer. Start with understanding the basics and understand only so many variables can be changed. For examples, MSRP is set by the car maker and generally your starting point of comparison across models; understand pre-incentive discount (discount given by the dealer) vs incentives (often these are rebates/discounts provided by the car market to incentivize sales); know that money factor is essentially your interest rate from the bank but that the dealer can mark it up to add profit for them.
The short answer is your target of $425 is unreasonable.
Your discount of $5,545 is good but $4,250 in rebates is very bad. In my region there is $8250 in rebates, but you need to use a non-captive, like Ally, to capture the IDL. Going 48 months on a FCA product, out of warranty, is really not a great idea.
If you don’t want to put in the effort, I would suggest trying Rodo, they will make it very easy to get an average deal. A good target at 36mo with $0 down for a Ram 1500 Laramie with $55K MSRP is $500/mo
