Help on lease please ? 2024 C300 Standard Package | TEXAS

Every $1,000 you pay upfront is roughly $30/mo

You can pay all of that upfront, you could even write them a check for $10k at signing, but it doesn’t change the fact that you’re effectively paying $7xx/month for a $48k vehicle. You’re still paying the same amount of money to drive that car. Whether you pay it on the front in or over time for 24 months.

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Since the sales tax doesn’t change based on length of the lease, isn’t it actually “worse,” in many ways, to do a shorter term lease (like 24 mo)? Same amount of sales tax will be less per month if the lease duration is longer, and you delay getting a new car (and possibly needing to pay full sales tax all over again).

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That quote has you using $3500 in trade in equity towards the drive off costs ($19300 value-$15800 payoff). I’m not very good with Texas leases but I think that wouldn’t be enough to cover the tax + acq fee + doc fee + Registration/title fees + 1st payment. I could be wrong but I get around $3629 for all of that added together.

That’s debatable with a Merc given you’re stuck with the damn thing. (unless they started accepting transfers again)

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In TX yes, the shorter-term leases are brutal on your tax bill. We low tax Texans pay 6.25% sales tax on the sales price of the leased vehicle. Not on the depreciation or monthly payment like many states. So, unless you are getting sales tax credits from the lender, you’re paying a lot of tax to lease cars in TX.

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True! I feel like a 3 year lease would be more worth it.

Please keep all posts in the same topic.

Sounds good :slight_smile:

He said putting more money down and having a longer lease (36 mos instead of 24) effects the residual, making the lease payments higher for the 36 month lease. I thought longer leases have lower monthly payments. Do you know if what the dealer said is true?

I edited my original post for this discussion showing the new quote he gave me.

Now, now… I imagine the ICE MBs are nice enough for a 2-3 yr period. :slight_smile:

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Do you know if putting money down and having a longer lease (36 months instead of 24) effects the residual, making the lease payments higher for the 36 month lease compared to the 24 month lease? The dealer quoted me higher for a 36 month lease VS a 24 month lease and told me it was because the residual changes.

Typically a 36 month lease will result in a smaller payment. Every once in a while we see a 24 month deal come out better. The RV is going to be lower on a 36 but your spreading all the cost out over longer term. The vehicle is going to be worth less to the lessor at the end of three years vs two. Most often the 36 month will be less expensive but please run the numbers.

Keep in mind your a super supporter so you can go to the calculator and it’ll pull up the base mf and rv for term you select. Input the rebates, incentives, etc…from your quote sheet and see the difference. Post your best attempt at the calculator and the community can prob figure it out and provide feedback.

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Thank you. Here is what I got using the Rate Findr feature. It doesn’t match his quote. Calculator w/ Rate Findr

Also, do you by chance know what “net price” means on the sheet he gave me with the quote? It’s on my original post. Thank you so so much.

On that sheet Net Price is just your out the door price after any discounts, rebates, incentives, trade equity, taxes, fees, etc., but before your trade payoff is added.

Do you know why the net price is so high? At $22,000. I am getting a total of $14,123.88. Thank you for responding :slight_smile:

Maybe the C300 is hackable in other states but apparently not in Texas.

I don’t see how you benefit from leasing here, especially when paying more in taxes and fees and losing a tax break on your next car.

Why not buy/finance it?

I tend to switch out my cars every 2 years, so for me it makes sense to lease. Unfortunately Texas taxes suck!!! :confused:

Not sure what you mean. The net price is just math, and on this sheet is a pointless number since it doesn’t include your trade payoff. I’d just forget it exists, it’s not relevant for building your calculator here or making the dealer a counter offer.

MSRP
-discounts
+dealer add ons
-trade allowance
+tax
+license, inspection, doc, acq fees
= Net Price
+trade payoff
= “Balance”, your final out the door price