Here is my calculation:
Why so many differ ?
Thanks
They don’t list what money factor they are using so make sure it isn’t marked up. Also, on your calculations you are listing MSD’s and on their worksheet they are listing cash down (cap cost reduction). On their worksheet, your actual payment is going to be $565/month when you figure in the cash down.
Thank you so much for your reply.
I have two questions.
- The seller agree on the sell prices before incentives, so does my calculation make sense and doable ?
- How can I negotiate with the seller for my calculation ?
Thanks
It’s a 13.5% discount before incentives. I’m not sure what people are getting, but a search of the recent threads should be helpful on that, and I’m sure someone else who’s dealt with BMW recent can answer that.
I would simply ask them to tell you what money factor they are using and make sure it’s the base that you have in your calculations. Also, their sheet doesn’t have MSDs at all, so make sure you are comparing apples to apples there. I noticed they have $1563 in DMV/State fees and you have $400 in your calculations so that’s something to clarify as well.
On the positive side, at least you only have an $85 doc fee which is great.
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You are so nice!!!
He told me that the money factor is .00217.
Thank you. Ya, they are allowed to mark it up for profit, which it looks like they are doing. Here is a 340i xDrive from 3 days ago. It’s a 24 month lease, but looks like a great deal. 2018 BMW 340i xdrive 59k 340p/month 2350 DAS+7MSDs (24/10)
Here’s another 24 month one from yesterday:
Here’s a 36/12k one from yesterday:
These are all 2018’s and you didn’t specify if this was an '18 or '19 so that will also make a difference.
Hopefully those will give you a good idea of where you should be and more people will stop by the thread and offer advice. Great cars though. I had a 2011 335i that I loved.
Where in CA are you? There are plenty of brokers/registered BMW dealers on this site in California that will make your job a lot easier.
It was 2018. Thank you so much. The first price is so great but hard to get, especially in CA.
Bay area. Can you recommend some to me ? Actually there has one register dealer, but he can not make 13% discount for me. The seller of the dealer can give this discount, but raise the residual values.
Just search on the site for Northern California dealers to see your options.
Do you mean raise the MF? Because they can’t mess with residual values. Those are set by the bank and cannot be increased (only decreased to account for miles on a loaner/demo).
You might be able to work on a deal out of area and have the car shipped as well. I’ve done that several times.
Sorry, mistakes. It is money factor which they marked up.
Is that doable out of states ? generally what is the shipment fee in states or out of states ?
Or can I pick up by myself ?
Thanks !
It depends. Some dealers won’t do them because they don’t like dealing with the tax issues and paperwork. I’ve hired shipping companies to ship two cars. Sometimes they require you are physically there to sign the paperwork and then you can drive or ship the car from there. It’s not unheard of for people on here to buy out of state though or in California’s case, in different parts of the state.
Got it. Thanks, I can look at the car in South-ca. The dealer in north-ca always marks up the money factor, which is wired.
Ya, where I live, dealing with any of the local dealers on anything more exotic than a Camry is nearly impossible, so it’s always easier to deal with someone out of my area. Good luck.
Thanks!!!
I guess you have quote from the dealer staring with S, and this is a car with white/coral red.
I thought of that car before and wants them to match the price. The discount is decent, but they definitely mark up the MF. You can ask them to keep the base MF with the discount that could be a good deal.
It is hard to persuade them to keep the base MF.
I guess just walk away and find another dealer… They may go back to me at the end of this month