$3K down or $3K DAS? What’s your use case for the car. Are you trying to determine which is the deal for that specific model/trim (that determination is easy to make) or relative to the other cars you are looking at (no one can help you w/ that decision).
I cannot imagine why you want to buy any of these cars once the lease is over.
Use case: mostly in city (SF) driving, with the ocasional roadtrip around.
Why do you think it would be wrong to buy any of the cars? Tbh, the only reason GLC 350e is in the roster is because I thought it would be a great car to buy after the lease over, especially (I am assuming) all the discounts on MSRP will be reduced from the final price.
Interesting that you think EQB is the worst option, I’ll remove it from the roster.
How about EQE? There are some great deals for them. There is a loaner EQE in SF to be leased for $500 per month, MSRP $84k…
As I mentioned, long term, I want a PHEV, and I thought GLC would be a great option to buy out after the lease is over. That is why it is on the least.
Otherwise, I am just looking to lease a nice luxury car, with what I can afford, considering the $7.5k credit + extra discounts until the end of Sep.
I did have a BMW for 8 years, maybe I got lucky, but no big issues.
Just reached out to the broker and they said “you don’t have to pay the EV credit back if you buyout the car, only the residual value”, not that I fully understand what he means, but if that means the dealer discounts + EV credits will be reduced from the buyout amount, I am leaning more toward a PHEV
It would probably be a good idea to take some time to understand how a lease works.
You don’t get any “EV credits” from a lease. The bank gets an EV credit and, depending on the bank, may pass some or all of that amount to you in a lease rebate.
Dealer discounts have nothing to do w/ the buyout price, unless you are doing an immediate buyout.
The lease maturity, your buyout price is the RV + applicable taxes and fees. There are no “dealer discounts” or “EV credits” applied to the buyout.
Ok, so I asked the dealer for the RV of the loaner EQE 300, it is $39100.
lease is $525 per month, 36 months and MSRP $84k.
By my calculations, if I were to buyout the car, the total cost would be 39100 + (36*525) + 4000 (DAS) = $62,000. and so $84,000 - $62,000 = $22,000 cheaper if I just buy the car now. I am sure some part of it, is wear and tear, but the discounts + EV should be in there too, right?
Or am I making a mistake in the calculations?
The reason I ask all of this, is that in general I am not someone who changes his car less than every 5 years, but I am in a situation that I need to lease right now (low cash + high interest rate + EV lease credit), and trying to have an exit route after the lease is over, without feeling that I have lost all the amount that I paid.
I think you need to include sales tax in your buyout-at-lease-end price.
I don’t understand what you mean by this.
You haven’t provided the pre-incentive/rebate selling price for any of your deals, so no one can comment on what would be cheaper for you.
If you finance a car, you also “lose” because of depreciation.
If you lease a car with a higher RV than the real-world resale value (since the RV often times has no correlation to real-world resale value), then you total cost of ownership might still be less with the lease than if you were to buyout the car at the end of the lease.
The nice thing about a lease is that it’s the bank’s loss if the RV exceeds real-world resale value.
You generally don’t have to pay the rent charge portion of the remaining payments when you buy out the lease early, but MB also charges a early termination fee IIRC of around 4%, someone can correct me if I’m wrong.
EQ’s are for leasing, ride out the cheap payment and get something new after.
