Car #1
Mileage under 2k
MSRP ~56K
Selling price BEFORE incentive $47.5
Fees - 925 - 95 - 250
Money factor .00188
15k miles 36 months
$4000 rebate
$0 Due at signing $579 NY taxes rolled in
Car #2
Mileage on the car is just under 5,000
MSRP ~$56K
Sale price BEFORE incentive - ~$45.2K
Fees - 925 + 141 + 416 (acquisition / doc / registration,plates,etc)
Money factor will be .00188 (as long as I qualify which they told me is a score over 740)
$4000 rebate
15,000 miles 36 months
$0 Due at signing for $522 monthly with NY taxes rolled in
I should add – On the carfax it states that there was “damage reported” on this car, not sure if that’s a big red flag.
Opinions?
Car #1 has the M package which I prefer and it also has blind spot management which I want. Car #2 has neither of these options.
Need more of breakdown, term, miles, fees and region. Need a couple thousand off to make it hackr worthy. 15-16% off on a loaner is meh… The miles are low but a imagine they still have some room, maybe they know 340 loaners are harder to find and won’t discount more.
I believe that discount is just about 16%
Fees are 95 doc and I believe $250 registration
This is in NY, so NY tax is rolled into that price.
This was for 15,000 miles and 36 months
I would try and push for 18% off, but 547 for 15k a yr isn’t that bad. Not real hack, but I would be happy with it especially if you wanted a 340 to begin with.
Yes definitely wanted a 340 to begin with. Would you suggest putting any more money up front to pay for fees/taxes and such? I know you aren’t supposed to put a down payment on a lease, but not sure if you aren’t supposed to pay fees up front either.
So does that mean ANYTHING paid up front is subject to being lost if you total the car? Even if you’re just paying fess/registration/state tax up front?
Looks like I was supposed to be adjusting for the mileage in the residual… This should be closer to what it should be. Still under what I was quoted. I was quoted 547 and this comes out to 526-527
I’d push for more of a discount. Maybe wait until the end of the month, express commitment to the deal if they can get the discount down to where you need it to be. I’d be looking for something more around the 18-20% (more depending on other factors and if the dealer is even willing to do a deal on the car).
Car 2, without question, unless you really like car 1. If you’re planning on buying out, might want car 1, but for just a lease, shouldn’t matter as long as it drives fine.