I thought it was just 6 months that you can extend?
People pick on RR all the time but these are exceptional vehicles. If $1k/month extra was a trivial money for a lease payment, I would get a full size on a heartbeat. I am sure you will enjoy it.
Btw, RR Sport and RR Fullsize drive differently. You should drive both and see which one you like better.
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For context, Iām coming out of 7 years in a Velar, from a Cayenne, from an X5 so slowly building to a full size
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I currently own a Defender (and have for about a year and a half) and absolutely love the thing - donāt listen to the noise too much. Hasnāt broken down once either. As many mentioned, people pick on them a lot but if you get lucky and yours is reliable theyāre really great cars.
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Going from a Velar into a new sport will be a massive upgrade.
Iām a little unsure why you chose PHEV, and why you custom ordered. There is a lot of sitting inventory on sports with decent discounts. If you could cancel and get your deposit back I would do that. And then just get an on the ground unit at a discount. Especially in SoCal where there is an LR dealer on every block. Lots of inventory. For example LR Newport Beach has 58 new RR sports on the ground.
Back to engine choice youāre much better off with the base I6 for resale or even the V8. But, if you go PHEV, just make sure you can take advantage of the $7500 and of course the $2k loyalty since you have a velar.
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Iāve had a Sport, and three full size Roverās - a 2020, 2024 and currently a 2025. Iāll echo no problems on any of them. The 2020 drove well but the 2024/2025ās are on another level.
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Every PHEV on the lot is a bad color combination with light interior or very expensive build. I donāt want a blacked out car, or white, or chalk. I ordered in order to get blue + the exact features that I want. For $100k car, it needs to be right.
I have reached out to tons of dealerships and canāt locate a build that is even close to reasonable.
A V8 sitting in LA traffic where I rarely go above 30 mph is just a waste of gas. A quiet engine for school parking lots and 100 degree days is the goal here.
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After reading through the thread, it seems like you want what you want no matter what advice you get.
So just go get it, and stop asking for peopleās opinions that you donāt want to hear.
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The question was about pricing and negotiation, not about if I should get the car.
Got some good tips, but I think I probably have to see what the programs look like in July
So in other words you negotiated nothing off MSRP?
And you have no leverage to negotiate once the car finally arrives. So what are we discussing again?
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I donāt believe that is necessarily true, and there is the 7500 EV credit and also loyalty to work withā¦
The build price is just based on configuration / options selected.
They are looking at a 100k car. Most sane people buy a car that is 1/4-1/3 of their income. I am sure they are doing just fine.
If they wanted the best financial choice they would be buying a cpo rav4 not a new RR Sport lol
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Lease cash and any other incentives come from the manufacturer. They are not dealer negotiables.
So thatās your MSRP.
I still donāt know what weāre discussing here.
Can you be really specific as to what your question is?
Is the lease the only way to the EV credit reasonably applied? Do they add it to the residual value should you decide to purchase the car out of the lease?
Is a goal of getting a lease at $5k drive off & $1500 a month reasonable? I am negotiating with a few dealers myself now so I can go in prepared, but was hoping for a shortcut with this experienced bunch.
Yes
No
I have no idea what term of lease you are looking for? How many months? How many miles?
Flexible on this based on what prices best, but at least 10k/year.
What discount off MSRP before the 7500 and loyalty does this require? Take an attempt at the calculator and post it here.
You have to build a calculator based on the program at the month of delivery to see what discount off MSRP you need to get to the target. Be prepared for the dealer to mark up the money factor and adjust your discount accordingly. If itās anything more than 5-6%, I am not sure you will have much luck. But as others have stated, not discussing the discount when you placed the order makes you lose leverage. If the dealer is firm and you are set on the monthly budget, then your only recourse is to walk away and find another dealer with inventory.
I ordered in April when the tariff car buying due to tariff news was in full force, but loyalty of 2k + EV is $9500 off which I thought was a decent starting place.
Here is my first shot at the calculator, it wouldnāt let me check the box off the loyalty so I removed it from the price