Got clobbered on my 2024 Silverado EV lease? TX deal, FL delivery need help dissecting this! [TX, shipping, tax]

Hey hackers just signed a 2024 Chevy Silverado EV RST lease in Texas, but I live in Florida and paid shipping to get it here. After digging into the numbers… I think I got burned. Need your expert take.

Deal location: Texas
Delivery: Shipped to Florida at my expense
Lease terms:
• MSRP: $97,000
• Gross Cap Cost: $91,056.10
• Adjusted Cap Cost: $79,713.34
• Residual (36/12k): $65,289.40 (67.3%)
• Monthly payment (incl. tax): $647.48
• Term: 36 months / 12,000 miles
• Down payment: ~$4,000 total (cash + trade-in)
• Disposition fee: $395
• Buyout at lease-end: $65,289.40
• Money factor: Not disclosed
• Total lease cost: $35,047.04
• Add-ons included (not itemized): paint protection, extended warranty, GPS, etc.

What I need help with:
1. Can someone reverse-engineer the money factor?
2. Based on these numbers — is this a terrible lease or somewhat defensible?
3. What would you have done differently? (I already suspect this was a bad structure)

I’m submitting this to the SIGNED! deals section once I gather feedback and I’ll report back either way.

Appreciate all insights go hard on it. I’d rather learn than sugarcoat it.

Why do you think you got ripped off?

Need the rent charge amount off your contract

I’m guessing it’s because he sees the demo-unicorn leases people post here and feels his payment isn’t low enough.

Not speak to a dealer until you have a well-researched target deal established.

If you’re asking these questions, it means you went into your negotiations poorly prepared and set yourself up to overpay.

Totally agree lesson learned. I went in thinking I was getting a decent deal and didn’t run the full lease math myself. In hindsight, I should’ve calculated the MF, confirmed incentives, compared broker quotes, and gotten everything itemized before signing. Won’t make that mistake again.

Way too reactive

Which rebates did you qualify for?

Was it a loaner / CTP?

What do you mean by trade in here?

Did you ship them a car to Texas from FL? What was the equity position?

Just calculated it my rent charge comes out to about $246.82/month, or $8,885.52 total over 36 months. That suggests the money factor is around 0.0032 (~7.7% APR), so it was definitely marked up.

Thats exactly whats going through my mind…

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Just to clarify why I feel this lease was a bad deal:
1. Gross cap cost was $91,056, even though MSRP was $97,000 and I put down $4,000. That tells me a bunch of add-ons like paint protection, warranty, GPS, etc. were buried in the numbers without being itemized. I didn’t get a clear breakdown up front.
2. Residual was $65,289.40 (about 67.3%), which is normal for a GM EV, but I’m basically financing almost $30K in depreciation and rent charge with no real discount and hidden markups.
3. I’m paying $647/month on a $97K truck with $4K down I’ve seen better deals on Denalis and even Hummers with similar MSRP. Plus I paid for shipping.
4. The buyout is $65K+ same as the residual. So I have zero equity unless the market booms again.

To answer some of the questions:
1. I reverse-calculated the MF and it looks like they marked it up big time. Based on my numbers (adjusted cap $79,713, residual $65,289, 36 months, $647/month), the money factor is around 0.0032, or about 7.68% APR. GM Financial’s base rate is usually around 0.0010 to 0.0015.
2. I do think this was a bad lease. No discount, inflated cap, buried fees, high MF, and no equity. With a clean structure and incentives, this deal should’ve landed somewhere between $500–550/month with $0 down.
3. What I’d do differently:
– Always ask for a breakdown of every charge
– Plug numbers into a lease calculator myself before signing
– Compare dealers nationwide, especially those with demo units
– Push hard for discounts and base MF

I was trying to chase a unicorn deal and ended up with the opposite. Hopefully this helps someone else avoid it.

You’re right, I was definitely too reactive. I didn’t qualify for any special rebates beyond the standard GM lease cash that was included.

It was a loaner/CTP unit, but I wasn’t shown any clear breakdown or discount tied to the mileage.

There was no trade-in involved. The $4,000 down was all out-of-pocket (cash).

And yes, I paid out of pocket to ship the truck from Texas to Florida after signing the deal.

I’m sorry but take a deep breath

Paint protection etc doesn’t get “buried” - it’s itemized in the contract.

What’s done is done. Enjoy the truck and come for advice next time before you sign.

That calculates to a .0017 mf

None of these things have any bearing on whether you got a good deal on this specific model in this specific month/year, especially #2 and #3.

You need to stop. You’re making assumptions here based off of a flawed understanding of how lease contracts work.

The money you put down doesn’t impact the gross cap cost. Having a gross cap well below the msrp means you did get a discount, etc.

This is not what your numbers show.

The buyout at lease end is by definition the residual (plus applicable fees/taxes). That’s how leases work.

Money Factor ≈ 0.00170
(Which translates to an interest rate of ≈ 4.08% APR by multiplying MF × 240)

I may have overreacted… Thanks for everyone sharing this is why i asked for your experts opinion

For a 2024 demo/loaner the discount was way too weak.

I’ve been trying to find a dealer that bites at 20~22% off MSRP before rebates.

That could bring you down to a 5~6k one-pay 36/10 lease.

Edit: The real question is: why did you sign if you think you were getting hosed?