GOOD DEAL? BMW i4 m60 2026

CALIFORNIA:

Hi, wondering if this is a good deal on a BMW 2026 i4m60 (early upgrade). On target to be $3k over in miles at the end of my current lease.

MSRP ~76K with all features desired.

$3200 total due at signing; $799/month.

Thoughts?

Please tag if your question involves a specialized topic (e.g. tax, insurance, legal, shipping, 3rd-party-buyout, lease-end-purchase, lease-transfer, etc.). You will reach experts faster that way. View all tags at Leasehackr Forum.

If you asked for a deal check, circle back after you have signed a deal – the community always loves to hear back! Submit your deal to SIGNED! (https://share.leasehackr.com).

What are your terms? You told us $799/month with $3200 DAS.

Are you doing 24 or 36 month terms? 7.5k miles or 15k miles?

Assuming 36 months, a $900 effective monthly doesn’t seem all that hot. I’d likely keep searching as I’ve seen prior M50s transferred for a lot less on here.

12 K miles! 36 months.

Personally would subtract $75/month too because they are taking nearly $3K of mileage overage.

Are you moving from one BMW to another? If so, how are they handling the early lease return? Any equity positive or negative?

Yes, I assume it was rolled into the deal somehow. 6 months early.

Car has negative equity for sure. By 10K or so.

So you’re paying an extra $10,000 to avoid paying $3,000 in 6 months? Take the money between your current payment and the proposed higher payment, save or invest it, and there’s your $3,000.

Just ride yours out and prepay overage the day of or the day before return when you know the exact number but get about 10% discount at about 22.5 cents a mile.

Then look at marketplace for something along those lines:

Not sure how I’m paying an extra 10K.

I believe they’re just taking remaining payments that are about 3K total.

Seems one way or another, I’m paying an extra 3K.

Mainly wanted to see if the deal alone was good.

Because you said what’s above, I assumed you were rolling in $10,000 of negative equity.

Please go to Wiki here and learn how to lease. And how to use the LH calc to put a payment/DAS together. Know the numbers. Or just hire a broker.

There is no free lunch. You’re either paying A) 3k of remaining payments + 3k of mileage overage = 6k or B) 10k of negative equity. Like others have said very likely the math works out best to ride it out.

Negative equity is 100% on you now, will simply fall off in 6 months. So why bother paying for someone else’s problem when you have an easy off ramp in 6 months?

Better yet, line up a credit card with some signing bonus and possibly 0% interest in about 5 months so you can pay your overage and possibly MSDs/DAS on the new car to hit the numbers for the bonus to offset the penalty partially.

Not sure how you think you can return your lease early and just get away with paying the remaining payments, especially if the car is underwater.

Looks like a decent deal for a $76K BMW i4 M60. The $799/month is reasonable, but the $3,200 upfront adds to the cost.

I agree but dealers say stuff like that all the time when someone like the OP wanders into the showroom.

“Great news, we can take care of all your remaining payments on your current car and get you into this brand new i4 today for only $799/mo!!”

99.9318% chance this isn’t in your best interest.

Set aside your current vehicle for a moment.

What % off MSRP (preincentive) is the new vehicle, and are they using buy rate for the MF?

Paying 3k for the use of a vehicle vs paying 3k for nothing?