How do you know a lease broker isn’t getting something from the dealer to give you a bad deal?
Would $600 be worth it? Unless you would really get taken otherwise, that might negate any savings. It would make sense for a really expensive car or several cars for a business.
It’s the whole point of hiring one. If your friend was okay signing the deal she thought she had and a broker could save her potentially thousands of dollars isn’t it totally worth it?
Go the the market place on this forum and look at the brokers and what they’re offering. Pretty simple process
Because they get a better discount than you would be able to get on your own unless you are pretty savvy. Ie you may have to pay sticker if you talk to dealer directly but the broker may offer 6% off so if the car is 50k and the broker costs 500 bucks you just saved 2.5k (excluding shipping or time/cost to get car wherever it is )
We do genesis, hi. 732-779-2587
Research and figure out how to use this:
Start here on how to use the calculator.
I will not take a deposit on FRIDAY 9/29 to tie up my inventory until Tuesday 10/3 to tie up my arguably most in demand vehicle on the last weekend of the month for a deal that won’t count till next month.
The salesperson was 100% in the right
She told me she doesn’t trust a lease broker.
Yeah, but she went out there on Tuesday thinking she would pick up the car. I understand if he didn’t take a deposit and no one signed anything, it probably is not a deal, and she should have realized that, that there was significance to his not taking a deposit. The salesman did write out the terms on a piece of paper.
I looked at that tool, and there is no way I could use it. It asks for so much information I don’t have.
So she trusts herself without having any of the numbers she needs to know whether she’s getting a good deal, but she doesn’t trust someone who does this for a living? Why did you bother posting here if you aren’t going to use the tools and suggestions we’re giving you to help get her a better deal?
Genuine question: what is the purpose of posting, if you don’t want to take the advice that people are offering?
The point is that you need all of the information the calculator is asking in order to determine the deal you’d like to propose to the dealer.
If don’t have that information, you’re just shooting in the dark.
If you don’t want to do the work to get that information, then the few hundred you spend on a broker will be worth it. The broker has a relationship w/ dealerships and are giving them a constant stream of business. You and your friend visit a dealership once every 3 yrs; what motivation does a dealer have to give you a good price?
Now is the time to learn where to get it.
Your alternative approach is to go into a 5 figure contract complete ignorant to what you’re agreeing to pay.
Yet another example of how “asking for a friend” threads are a waste of everyone’s time.
Buyer don’t know jack, buyer’s friend just shrugs when asked to figure it out, won’t hire a broker either… wtf are they all expecting, a deal to just fall into their laps?
She got a $53K lease model for $4500 down, $650 / month from the guy who gave her the lowball “deal” earlier.
She likes negotiating, and didn’t want to use a broker. It is good to know about brokers, because I might be able to use one or suggest one to someone.
I guess you are supposed to use that tool. I couldn’t figure it out at all myself before. I don’t have perfect credit, and wasn’t sure what to but in for it. Also, have no idea about incentives, fees, and some other things. It is probably great if you are a car salesman or lease broker, and work with it all day. Can tell by negotiating with different dealers about what the price is.
Most of the posters here seem to work for car dealers or used to and mostly seem nasty.
$4.5K down or $4.5 due at signing?
I’ve leased 9 cars (5 for myself, 4 for family and friends) and I’m just a random joe working in tech who likes driving nice cars every 3 years. Literally never worked at a dealership
I came to this forum back in 2017 when I got screwed on my first lease (because dealership got me in a bad deal) to learn so I can continue to drive nice cars, help my loved ones, but actually with good deals and saving money.
Does your friend understand that the “money factor” is how a dealership sets their APR on the lease, that they can inflate it, and that she can get this number from the above posted calculator or edmunds so that she can ensure they don’t screw her? Or to check the residual value & lease incentives to ensure she’s not over paying?
Maybe comparing it to other recently signed deals on this forum to ensure she is not getting screwed?
& like I very recently learned (look at my recent posts), measuring leasing against financing that same car to ensure it is even a good lease in the first place?
If your friend doesn’t have any knowledge of the above & has no interest in learning it, yet also won’t hire a trusted broker because she doesn’t trust them - it sounds like a bit of dunning-kruger effect.
She should either read the leasing 101 page on this forum and start researching other recent genesis deals (free data to make an educated decision…), or hire a broker who will literally save her thousands.
$650 monthly payment with thousands down on a $50k ish car goes against so many values on this page.
Nah, for some peeps ignorance is a bliss… and we are just nasty people getting in their way.
Yes!!! Lil Ms. Negotiator Extraordinaire ended up with an effective payment at least in the 8s assuming it’s a 36 mos lease (really hope it’s a 24) and $4500 DAS (really think it was DP) on a $52K car.
Full disclosure: I did work for a dealer for whopping 100 days or so about 30 years ago while in college. Those were the wild days when you did not have to disclose cap cost - it was all about the payment… or so we were told to tell customers 
Pulled my license off the board on Thanksgiving day at lunch and told the a-hole manager that I was going to be enjoying a real turkey at home. Vegas the next day.
I asked about it before she signed. No one said anything about the figures. Everyone said to use some weird software. It was a lot better deal than the other dealers were offering. The prices are much higher now.
And literally rejected every piece of advice that was provided to you politely.
The GV70 is not frequently discussed here, so “figures” for this car are not as readily available as they are for other cars.
That’s why we suggested you
The calculator can be a bit intimidating at first, but it provides valuable insight into how lease deals are structured and provides a way for you to determine what a realistic deal might be. Otherwise, one is simply pulling numbers out of thin air.
Well, that does tend to happen when the OP keeps rejecting basic advice.
I do think that posters here have gotten more short tempered over the years. But, TBH, posts like yours are part of the reason why.
We still don’t know what the lease term was of your friend’s deal (duration? mileage? was that $4.5K cap cost reduction or DAS). So your post will be of limited use for people looking for a GV70 in the future.
All just my $0.02.
Most of the posters here are people going out of their way to offer free advice to people to save them thousands of dollars for no benefit to themselves and typically expect nothing other than for the people they are trying to help to put in even the most minimal effort into their own deal. You were given all the tools needed to be successful, including step by step directions of exactly how to use the calculator and ignored them all.
Essentially what you told everyone, even if you didnt mean it, is “do everything for me, i cant be bothered, and youre all mean for not doing it for me.”
People get short and nasty when people expect strangers trying to save them money to put more effort into their deal than they do themselves. All we ask is that people are open to learn and try.
Once again the “asking for a friend” thread was a waste of everyone’s time.
The buyer didn’t GAF, why should anyone else?
Muted.