FIRST HACK SIGNED: Mazda CX-5 Touring Preferred $318 + $807 DAS

$318 + $807 DAS. 36/12k. No MSD’s. Tax is high for me @ 10.25%.

Not the hack of a lifetime, but a good lease for my lady.

Best broker quote I got for a socal CX-5 was $330 + $870 DAS for 10k/36. This was much better at $318 + $807 for 12/36.

P.S. Looks like I missed out on a good pre-negotiated deal that was running which was better than this by about a hundred or two hundred for total lease cost.

2021 Mazda CX-5 Touring Preferred (Black/Parchment int.)
MSRP: $29,980
Selling Price: $27,100
Monthly Payment: $318.76
Drive-Off Amount: $807
Months: 36
Annual Mileage: 12k
MF: 0.00057
Residual: $18,287.80
Incentives: nada
Total lease cost (not incl. disposition, but incl. taxes): $12,016.87
Region: so-cal
Leasehackr Score: 8.3 yrs
Leasehackr Calculator Link: CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR

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Congrats and great write-up. Enjoy and post pics.

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No incentives? Or is it rolled into sale price?

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Strange there was no lease cash. Great deal, enjoy the car, post pictures!!!

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No incentives.
Wasn’t eligible for conquest, loyalty.
They didn’t have any lease cash per Edmunds for this vehicle.

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New member here, thanks for the useful content. I am looking at this same vehicle. Right now my decision is between the CX5 and the Hyundai Tuscon. Hyundai seems to be winning as they have lease cash and the car is deeply discounted since the 2021 have arrived. I am enjoying reading other people deals, very educational. thanks for sharing.

That’s a great car too.

Mazda stopped leasing 2020’s a bit ago, so this one was a 2021. Not sure if Hyundai is leasing out their 2020’s still

Well it looks like they cant get me anything other than a cream interior on the Hyundai. I think I’ll try and get a deal similar that pre-negitaited deal on the Mazda CX-5. Where did you find that deal?

I shopped purchase price across 8-10 dealers in SoCal. Found the best purchase price I could do and then brought that quote to a more local, volume dealer and they matched it.

Took me about a week.

Hey Iampy. New to all of this and you hit the deal I’m looking for. I agree, Touring Preferred is the way to go over GT. I currently have a Touring lease that’s ending in June and my biggest regret is not getting that power lift gate.

I’m wanting to begin shopping purchase prices around here in SoCal as you did. Would you mind sharing an example email or providing some tips on doing so? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Also a newbie question, how did you get your lease spot on with the Lease Hckr calculator? Again, any tips are appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey there!

First thing for me was identifying which ext/int color I wanted. If the combo you want is a little less carried, that’s worth noting.

Draw up a list of 10-15 mazda dealers within say a 2 hr drive. Focus on the more volume dealers (it shows how many of each car they have on their sites). galpin, mazda of orange, star mazda, tuttle click, screen mazda, john hine.

go on true car and get some offers for the exact color/trim/package you want to see where price can be negotiated from. work down from there.

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(average) consumers (feel like they) have low leverage in a car buying transaction (i’ve learned).

you can immensely improve your leverage by controlling:
-communications
-researching and knowing your numbers
-moving quickly on quotes across multiple dealers, keeping each convo running hot.

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Jon. You’re amazing! Your response is so unbelievably helpful. I greatly greatly appreciate it.

I do have a follow up question (if you don’t mind). At what point via email did you let the sales person know okay, translate this into a lease? Or once you hit that selling price point that you’re happy with, do you them provide them with your calculations for a lease and say make it happen? Appreciate any insight here.

And do you mind breaking down your DAS? I noticed your calculator says $7.04 down payment?

This strategy is actually not very good.

  1. Purchase price includes purchase incentives. If you want to start at a pre-incentive price, you can start that conversation in the context of a lease.

  2. You completely ruin the value proposition that you’re offering to a dealer which is a quick and easy transaction and the perceived likelihood of a happy customer with 10/10 CSI scores, referrals, service revenues, etc.

  3. Discounted price means nothing by itself. MF markups, doc fees, “pre-installed accessories” etc etc can all ruin a lease deal for someone after agreeing to a selling price. So if you want to waste everyone’s time arguing over every line item and numerous back & forth, this strategy is the best.

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Lampy seemed to prove his theory.

While I appreciate a different perspective, are you able to share what the better strategy might be?

Respectfully,
-ddcasi

Move to a strategy of making offers.

Plug the following into the LH calculator after MSRP of the vehicle you’re looking at:

Selling price based on % pre-incentive discount found by searching Shared Deals and Marketplace sections of this forum.

RV, MF and incentives (lease cash) from Edmunds forums. Add any extra rebates you qualify for (college grad, etc) under incentives.

DMV fees and taxes based on your state’s official website.

Voila! Now check the box to make it $0 DAS and offer the resulting monthly payment*

  • preferably rounded to a multiple of $5 or $10 to make yourself seem more like a normal person :innocent:

Is just a conduit. It’s up to you to create a perception that he or she carries to a manager… that perception could be either

A. Sign today if they agree to the customer offer of X per month and Y DAS.

B. Negotiate & Agree to a purchase price. Change your mind (in their eyes) to leasing. Then a further back & forth of: Negotiate a lease selling price. Negotiate over MF markup. Negotiate over doc fee and every other line item. Etc etc etc.

This is a fantastic way to waste everyone’s time and get down the road of a negotiation only to realize everyone isn’t on the same page. I’m not saying that as a hypothetical but as a reality that happens here on an almost hourly basis.

Here’s what happens on here all the time:

Person says “I want 10% off for a selling price of $30,500” while thinking to themselves “great, at that selling price and buy rate, I’m at $400/mo.”

Dealer comes back and says “great, I can do 10% off, when will you be here?” While thinking “no problem, we mark up ever mf by .0004, so I’ll make up the loss on the front end on the back end.”

Person goes in, dealer says “here’s the numbers we agreed to, that’ll be $430/mo.”

Person freaks out and come posts here about how the dealer is trying to commit fraud.

Meanwhile, hours have been wasted because they didn’t just say “here’s the deal I want.”

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