We have offerings for Texas and beyond posted here.
Iām kind of tough love tooā¦itās truly amazing to me how many come to this site and either say theyāve leased (meaning a lot have already signed contracts they have no clue about) or are looking to lease (āit looks high to meā) but have NO IDEA about how a lease payment comes about using math. I mean I try to lead a horse to water a bit but the vast majority of these people arenāt even googling āhow to lease 101ā or āhow to use a lease calcā or āhow to put together a lease spreadsheetā or anything before they post!
Therein lies the problem. While you may believe @UncleShelby has failed to demonstrate a basic attempt to understand leasing, Iām going to counter with the notion that the user has clicked through 285 posts on LH and spent over 2 hours reading forum content on this site before they posted. And thatās just what was tracked. Who knows what other non-forum content was consumed.
Auto leasing can greatly benefit those who are seasoned with how they work, but can pose a daunting challenge to someone who is new to the financial instrument. Instead of assuming someone has been led to water and wonāt drink it, it would be helpful if the experts on this site could show an ounce of empathy toward the concept that understanding auto leasing is going to take much longer than reading 2 hours of content and 285 posts on LH.
But instead of chiding folks out of the gate for not being experts, maybe those who donāt have the patience to help should just simply refrain from throwing in their two cents. And allow folks who do have the patience to come in and actually do something constructive.
Look, I know you all mean well and each person has a certain style to communicate. Iām just trying to explain that if the audience of your message feel itās coming across as demeaning, rude, or chastisement, then the message isnāt going to be effectively heard.
Good points but I think it should be a requirement for a post by a newbie to have a calc link or something to show that they have at least attempted to put a target payment/DAS together for whatever question they are asking.
And yeah, for me, I will probably post less and less going forward as I donāt have patience for those who canāt adequately prep before posting. āIt looks high to meā posts drive me nuts and especially when 99% of those who post that have no clue why āit looks highā.
I hope you donāt post less, youāre super helpful in a bunch of threads here.
I agree itād help if first-time leasers did more work themselves⦠but this forum software does a pretty good job having people read/learn before they can post at all. Maybe the forum software needs to integrate with the calculator software so that people can only post once theyāve created a lease structure in the calculator.
Well, thanks, but I do recognize my impatience and the down sides to that!
Too many posts where people just put a pic of a deal sheet up and want everything following served up on a platterā¦those should definitely be made to post a calc linkā¦or like you said canāt post until they have created a lease payment/DAS.
For example this guy here puts up the belowā¦he definitely should put up a calc link showing how he thinks he can achieve it. That would be much easier to review or comment on. And also a lot of people will do that and see, WOW, I need a 20% discount for that to happen with base MF and RVā¦that probably wonāt flyā¦and they have learned a whole bunchā¦and maybe even learned too that down does not equal DAS. HAHA!
I am interested in the Kia EV6, BMW i4, Cadillac Lyriq, Genesis GV60.
I want to stay in the same payment range, circa $400, with $0 Down .
Wow. Yāall really seem to be upset that I asked for.some opinions on what a good lease deal might look like.
Did you ever think that if I , and other newbies on here, knew as much you guys pretend to know about leasing, I would be out getting my deal and not weeding through these unnecessary comments.
Iāve looked at a ton of of forum questions. Those that either did not pertain to me or I did not have anything constructive to contribute ⦠I simply skipped to the next.
I offer you guys that same option free of charge.
Buh Bye.
Not upset at all as I know a lot of uneducated to leasing people post hereā¦just trying to figure a way for the site to get better and streamline some of the same requests that pop up in volume.
For your case have you put a LH calc link together on a car you are interested in? The process of coming up with a target payment/DAS really helps people to learn what they need to know. And is easier for others to review and advise on.
You should know what payment/DAS is before ever going into a dealer. You should be making the offers and not just collecting dealer sheets. If you actually did the research and used your target discount off MSRP, along with incentives/rebates, along with base MF and RV for your term, along with the associated DAS you are in the position of power and could just say I will pay X monthly with X DAS for this car now, do you accept Mr. Dealer? And you can do all this from the comfort of your homeā¦
For example I was playing with a lease on an M3 awhile back and this is what I was going to send to the dealer from my spreadsheet:
Hello Mr. Internet Sales Manager,
My credit score is 800+ and Iām ready to take delivery!
I will pay 1042.98 plus CA tax on the subject VIN M3 on your lot for a 36 month 7500 mile lease.
I will pay at signingā¦7 MSD, first payment, document and reg/lic feesā¦0 down.
Details here:
MSRP 86095
Selling price 79207
Cap 80132 (includes 925 acq fee)
RV 52517 61%
MF 0.0025
7 MSD for 0.00042 reduction off 0.0025 results in MF of 0.00208
Monthly Dep 767.07
Monthly Fin 275.91
36 month Lease Payment 1042.98 plus CA tax
Ok. Awesome. So, to sum up the advice Iām getting here as it pertains to my original question ā¦
I should either Go do my own research and figure it out for myself or pay a broker to do it for me.
Thatās sweet. Hey thanks Leasehackr Pros.
Go with #2 if you value your time and sanity.
LMAO, hey, you have learned something! Either is much better than being played for 2 hours to get and post a shitty deal sheetā¦
If you would like some advice I can give you the following:
You seem to have narrowed down your search somewhat to a few particular models and thatās good. The next step from there would be to test drive and research them, see which ones you like best and are willing to live with for 24 months or more. Trim level will become important here at this step too since not all trims lease favorably. Hereās where you may discover that a car you like has a feature you really need or want at a favorable trim level, where a car you may like more isnāt quite as favorable. Another wrinkle since you are in Texas is that some dealers may be able to offer you tax credits while others may not. This may influence your decisions.
As a Super Supporter you have access to the RateFindr portion of the calculator which is very useful in determining which cars have the best leasing programs (best combination of high residual, low money factor and high rebates). You also have access to the āSigned!ā section of the site which will allow you to see verified deals and signed contracts of the cars you are interested in. This is very useful in determining possible amounts of dealer discount on these cars. A caveat here, the deals you see today may not be terribly useful for long since the month has ended/is ending and new programs will be starting soon. The dealer discount you see is still useful since it gives you a target to combine with the new programs when they roll out.
The Marketplace is a great resource, not only for hiring a broker but also for establishing target deals. You can try your hand at negotiating on your own with the information at your disposal, attempting to match or even beat offers that dealers and brokers are giving forum members. If for whatever reason that doesnāt work you can always hire or contact a broker/dealer and just wrap things up that way.
As a final piece of advice, generally your time at a dealership should be minimal, limited to test drives and signing contracts when you are ready to buy. Negotiations should be conducted almost exclusively via email and phone when necessary. If a dealer is unwilling to work that way your best bet is to find another dealer who will.
Anyway, looking at what you have posted this is the most constructive advice I can give you at the moment. Hopefully itās helpful and hopefully you narrow your search down and have some more aggressive offers to bring here for review in the future. Good luck.
Thank you kind sir. Great info.
I drove, and thereby ruled out, the Kia EV6 & the Mach E. (Unless thereās an offer I canāt refuse.
I drove, and fell in love with the BMW I4.
But as of yet I havenāt reached a deal Iām comfortable with.
Tomorrow Iāll go drive the Cadillac Lyric. Iām learning the difference that trim levels have on RV. So, thats an element I need to add to my negotiation.
Tomorrow is technically the last day of this current sales cycle & Labor Day.
If I canāt get the deal Iām looking for on a day like this Iāll need to go back to the drawing board.
Thanks again.
How would this be part of your negotiations?
By choosing the right vehicle to get to the deal i want.
I may have been starting in the wrong place on a vehicle that could never work.
On the Cadillac Lyriq, for instance, the lower trim level, I think, has a much better RV than the higher trim levels.
Thanks for the all the helpers (and also the haters).
I ended up with not one but 2 new leases. I think it all worked out in the end.
2024 Cadillac XT5
2024 Cadillac Lyric
Please tell me Lyriq was a tech from big star
What was your deal on your leases?
want to know too