EV shopping in Houston Texas But Not Sure Where To Get The Best Deal

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We have offerings for Texas and beyond posted here.

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I’m kind of tough love too…it’s truly amazing to me how many come to this site and either say they’ve leased (meaning a lot have already signed contracts they have no clue about) or are looking to lease (ā€˜it looks high to me’) but have NO IDEA about how a lease payment comes about using math. I mean I try to lead a horse to water a bit but the vast majority of these people aren’t even googling ā€˜how to lease 101’ or ā€˜how to use a lease calc’ or ā€˜how to put together a lease spreadsheet’ or anything before they post! :slight_smile:

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Therein lies the problem. While you may believe @UncleShelby has failed to demonstrate a basic attempt to understand leasing, I’m going to counter with the notion that the user has clicked through 285 posts on LH and spent over 2 hours reading forum content on this site before they posted. And that’s just what was tracked. Who knows what other non-forum content was consumed.

Auto leasing can greatly benefit those who are seasoned with how they work, but can pose a daunting challenge to someone who is new to the financial instrument. Instead of assuming someone has been led to water and won’t drink it, it would be helpful if the experts on this site could show an ounce of empathy toward the concept that understanding auto leasing is going to take much longer than reading 2 hours of content and 285 posts on LH.

But instead of chiding folks out of the gate for not being experts, maybe those who don’t have the patience to help should just simply refrain from throwing in their two cents. And allow folks who do have the patience to come in and actually do something constructive.

Look, I know you all mean well and each person has a certain style to communicate. I’m just trying to explain that if the audience of your message feel it’s coming across as demeaning, rude, or chastisement, then the message isn’t going to be effectively heard.

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Good points but I think it should be a requirement for a post by a newbie to have a calc link or something to show that they have at least attempted to put a target payment/DAS together for whatever question they are asking.

And yeah, for me, I will probably post less and less going forward as I don’t have patience for those who can’t adequately prep before posting. ā€˜It looks high to me’ posts drive me nuts and especially when 99% of those who post that have no clue why ā€˜it looks high’.

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I hope you don’t post less, you’re super helpful in a bunch of threads here.

I agree it’d help if first-time leasers did more work themselves… but this forum software does a pretty good job having people read/learn before they can post at all. Maybe the forum software needs to integrate with the calculator software so that people can only post once they’ve created a lease structure in the calculator.

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Well, thanks, but I do recognize my impatience and the down sides to that!

Too many posts where people just put a pic of a deal sheet up and want everything following served up on a platter…those should definitely be made to post a calc link…or like you said can’t post until they have created a lease payment/DAS.

For example this guy here puts up the below…he definitely should put up a calc link showing how he thinks he can achieve it. That would be much easier to review or comment on. And also a lot of people will do that and see, WOW, I need a 20% discount for that to happen with base MF and RV…that probably won’t fly…and they have learned a whole bunch…and maybe even learned too that down does not equal DAS. HAHA!

I am interested in the Kia EV6, BMW i4, Cadillac Lyriq, Genesis GV60.
I want to stay in the same payment range, circa $400, with $0 Down .

Wow. Y’all really seem to be upset that I asked for.some opinions on what a good lease deal might look like.

Did you ever think that if I , and other newbies on here, knew as much you guys pretend to know about leasing, I would be out getting my deal and not weeding through these unnecessary comments.

I’ve looked at a ton of of forum questions. Those that either did not pertain to me or I did not have anything constructive to contribute … I simply skipped to the next.

I offer you guys that same option free of charge.
Buh Bye.

Not upset at all as I know a lot of uneducated to leasing people post here…just trying to figure a way for the site to get better and streamline some of the same requests that pop up in volume.

For your case have you put a LH calc link together on a car you are interested in? The process of coming up with a target payment/DAS really helps people to learn what they need to know. And is easier for others to review and advise on.

You should know what payment/DAS is before ever going into a dealer. You should be making the offers and not just collecting dealer sheets. If you actually did the research and used your target discount off MSRP, along with incentives/rebates, along with base MF and RV for your term, along with the associated DAS you are in the position of power and could just say I will pay X monthly with X DAS for this car now, do you accept Mr. Dealer? And you can do all this from the comfort of your home…

For example I was playing with a lease on an M3 awhile back and this is what I was going to send to the dealer from my spreadsheet:


Hello Mr. Internet Sales Manager,

My credit score is 800+ and I’m ready to take delivery!

I will pay 1042.98 plus CA tax on the subject VIN M3 on your lot for a 36 month 7500 mile lease.

I will pay at signing…7 MSD, first payment, document and reg/lic fees…0 down.

Details here:

MSRP 86095
Selling price 79207

Cap 80132 (includes 925 acq fee)

RV 52517 61%

MF 0.0025
7 MSD for 0.00042 reduction off 0.0025 results in MF of 0.00208

Monthly Dep 767.07
Monthly Fin 275.91

36 month Lease Payment 1042.98 plus CA tax

Ok. Awesome. So, to sum up the advice I’m getting here as it pertains to my original question …

I should either Go do my own research and figure it out for myself or pay a broker to do it for me.

That’s sweet. Hey thanks Leasehackr Pros.

Go with #2 if you value your time and sanity. :slight_smile:

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LMAO, hey, you have learned something! Either is much better than being played for 2 hours to get and post a shitty deal sheet…

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If you would like some advice I can give you the following:

You seem to have narrowed down your search somewhat to a few particular models and that’s good. The next step from there would be to test drive and research them, see which ones you like best and are willing to live with for 24 months or more. Trim level will become important here at this step too since not all trims lease favorably. Here’s where you may discover that a car you like has a feature you really need or want at a favorable trim level, where a car you may like more isn’t quite as favorable. Another wrinkle since you are in Texas is that some dealers may be able to offer you tax credits while others may not. This may influence your decisions.

As a Super Supporter you have access to the RateFindr portion of the calculator which is very useful in determining which cars have the best leasing programs (best combination of high residual, low money factor and high rebates). You also have access to the ā€œSigned!ā€ section of the site which will allow you to see verified deals and signed contracts of the cars you are interested in. This is very useful in determining possible amounts of dealer discount on these cars. A caveat here, the deals you see today may not be terribly useful for long since the month has ended/is ending and new programs will be starting soon. The dealer discount you see is still useful since it gives you a target to combine with the new programs when they roll out.

The Marketplace is a great resource, not only for hiring a broker but also for establishing target deals. You can try your hand at negotiating on your own with the information at your disposal, attempting to match or even beat offers that dealers and brokers are giving forum members. If for whatever reason that doesn’t work you can always hire or contact a broker/dealer and just wrap things up that way.

As a final piece of advice, generally your time at a dealership should be minimal, limited to test drives and signing contracts when you are ready to buy. Negotiations should be conducted almost exclusively via email and phone when necessary. If a dealer is unwilling to work that way your best bet is to find another dealer who will.

Anyway, looking at what you have posted this is the most constructive advice I can give you at the moment. Hopefully it’s helpful and hopefully you narrow your search down and have some more aggressive offers to bring here for review in the future. Good luck.

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Thank you kind sir. Great info.

I drove, and thereby ruled out, the Kia EV6 & the Mach E. (Unless there’s an offer I can’t refuse.
I drove, and fell in love with the BMW I4.
But as of yet I haven’t reached a deal I’m comfortable with.

Tomorrow I’ll go drive the Cadillac Lyric. I’m learning the difference that trim levels have on RV. So, thats an element I need to add to my negotiation.

Tomorrow is technically the last day of this current sales cycle & Labor Day.
If I can’t get the deal I’m looking for on a day like this I’ll need to go back to the drawing board.

Thanks again.

Snoop Dogg Yes GIF by NBC Olympics

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How would this be part of your negotiations?

By choosing the right vehicle to get to the deal i want.
I may have been starting in the wrong place on a vehicle that could never work.

On the Cadillac Lyriq, for instance, the lower trim level, I think, has a much better RV than the higher trim levels.

Thanks for the all the helpers (and also the haters).
I ended up with not one but 2 new leases. I think it all worked out in the end.

2024 Cadillac XT5
2024 Cadillac Lyric

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Please tell me Lyriq was a tech from big star

What was your deal on your leases?

want to know too