EV, Fleet, Conquest Discounts on MB EQE Deal

and “take it or leave it.” It’s a little pushy and a red flag

The red flag here is you havent done the basic research on what the deal entails. RV and MF is like bare minimum information.


A little harsh. I’m an avid reader of the forum and have used this information to secure leases before. I am a reasonably intelligent person. But this stuff is like breathing air to you guys, not to many of us.

The dealer sent the image above explaining all fees. I asked about MF and RV and got the response I told you.

I agree that each deal is a specific situation, specific car, etc. But I hope you would also agree that cash DAS and monthly payments make it easy to compare deals across similar situations. And that’s a great deal for an EQE. I didn’t come here begging for approval or a “deal check,” just an attempt to understand incentives and rebates and how dealers represent them on the sheet that was sent to me. I thought it an honest and straightforward question (and actually got a straightforward answer from mllcb42, thank you).

I didn’t come here begging for approval or a “deal check,”

Have I misunderstood the point of the post? Arent you asking how the deal is being structured and how to get them to apply your incentive? Doesnt that fall under “deal check”?

Yes! Thank you!

I will be honest, I have helped a lot of people here and I am not sure why you are getting this upset to send stupid PMs like this.


If I ask myself, “Why would Kellstar share that PM?” the only answer I can come up with is “to denigrate and belittle me.” It is consistent with my message to you in the first place, so thank you for that.

Like I said, you win man. I’m not trying to be equal to you or pretend to know as much as you do. I humbly apologize for whatever I did to you in a previous lifetime.

If there are moderators on this forum, feel free to delete this pointless thread.

Ok let’s get this back on track. Op you now have the MF and rv from above. If you want to take another stab at the calculator post it and we can see if we can help you. But if you already know it’s a good deal then there may be no need.

I’m really not sure on what basis you concluded it’s a good deal.

Maybe it is, maybe it isn’t.

@fryguy. Let me try to reword what others have been saying to see if it makes more sense.

If you research the car on LH, you can find the residual, MF, and eligible rebates. You can also find the discounts that others have been receiving on similar cars.

If you take your inputs and enter them in the LH calculator, you can determine what is a good payment (and down payment) for you.

Once you have that, it doesn’t matter how the dealer is getting there. I’ve had situations where a dealer is losing money on a deal. Since the sales rep or SM or GM will get $0 credit for a money losing deal, they would rather discount another $1000 (still a money losing deal) and then increase the MF. The net payment is the same to me but, even though they are still getting $0 for a money losing deal, they are able to make money on the MF. Different dealers may have different ways of structuring deals to optimize their own situation (application of rebates vs price reduction, $ discount vs MF, etc)

I believe the point being made by others is that you need to have all the inputs first so you can calculate the deal you are seeking. Once you have that, if a dealer is meeting your requirements, you shouldn’t care how they get there. If you don’t have that and are just looking at a dealer’s offer, you’re making a blind decision on whether the offer is good or not. $2k down and $680/mth may sound good until you find out you could’ve gotten $0k down and $500/mth (fake numbers to illustrate the point).

Regarding your questions about taxable rebates or not, I would select not-taxable to start if you don’t know how your state handles rebates. If a dealer tells you they need to tax the rebates (dealers can’t cheat you on rebates), then go back and adjust your LH calculator.

I hope this helps.


Thank you WeakestLink. I appreciate your post, sincerely.

When the LH calculator put in numbers automatically, I just figured it knew what it was doing and sourcing data from elsewhere.

Even if I know the MF from Edmunds or RateFindr, I still need to know the MF the dealer is offering. The dealer hasn’t disclosed that yet. I have researched the rebates, which is how this post started.

I disagree somewhat re: the blind decision though. Having spent hours watching the MB EQS and similar threads, I have a good idea of what people are being offered, what people are signing for, and what a reasonable deal is. But I appreciate and agree completely with your illustration. In a vacuum, knowing nothing else, of course who knows what you could have gotten, and whether your deal is good or not.

I’ve seen (and now experienced) people getting roasted for not knowing MF and RV. I understand the math. Somehow, my point of this thread keeps getting lost. I had a very simple question of where on the dealer sheet certain rebates or incentives show up. That was pretty much it. The difference between discount, rebate, and additional discount.

If your not getting the answer here, just pick up the phone and ask the sales guy to clairfy.

For sure, I will. The salesperson is off today, but I will clarify tomorrow. I just wanted a little bit of info going into that conversation. The dealer says “it doesn’t stack” but Kellstar, among others, has been clear that it should stack with EV and conquest.

How many of those people live in your zip code and qualify for the same incentives you do?

You don’t need to know what the dealer is offering because it doesn’t matter.

If you have a target deal based on what the lease should be, you know where you’re trying to get to.

If the dealer wants to mark up the mf but give a bigger discount to get to your numbers? Great! Doesn’t make a bit of difference.

If the dealer wants to add on a protection package but give a bigger discount to get to your numbers? Great!


You have the answer from the dealer - they have included (most likely 1000) in the 11,xxx discount they provided. So I’m guessing best you can do is to tell them to discount another 750 since you have fleet. Or they may tell you 11,xxx discount includes 1000 + 750 fleet incentive.

It is actually better for you to have that in the discounts / additional discounts line item vs rebates line item (depending on how your state taxes rebates).

So you can take their word and assume that incentive is provided to you in that discount line item and negotiate further if you feel discount excluding that incentive is not enough.

I’m guessing this is CA Walnut creek.

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The dealer can say whatever they want and not give you any discount. Every sales/dealerhsip is different on how they conduct business. You need to know what you qualify for and tell them. If you know the rv/mf then you will know if its being marked up. That’s why everyone is telling you to go into the dealership with knowledge.

Reading these posts in a day doesn’t make you understand the #s on how a lease is structured. You can’t cram on it and then take the Final thinking you get an A. The dealer will hose you, they in it to make the most $$$.

I feel like we’re making the same point. Dealer came on to LH and posted a deal and said “take it or leave it.” I took the deal.

Maybe the dealer put the fleet incentive under “additional discount,” but that strikes me as odd when the EV and conquest were under “rebates.”

Here is the base calc that you can use to tweak and get to a target deal

Maybe they did, maybe they didn’t. If they said “here’s what we’re offering, take it or leave it”, does it really matter?

Yes, if the dealer is misinformed about stackability of the fleet incentive.

Some dealers do that.