I like the new Accords, but my wife used to lease a 2013 CR-V and ended up HATING it. That now makes her dog on Honda. I know Honda has come a long way since then, though. I remember that car just being incredibly cheap-feeling.
A 2013 CRV was a cheap vehicle, comparable to the Civic at the time which was also extremely cheapened. It’s since moved upmarket as they added the HRV below it. The Civic is also vastly superior and not a bad choice.
Honestly I prefer the interior of the 10gen Accord over the current 4 series, haven’t sat in a new 3er yet but I’ve heard it’s good. I won’t subject you to my opinions on the other vehicles you mentioned but don’t spend your money without checking out the Accord and GLI.
Really easy solution. Rent a base Corolla/Versa for 3-4 days, and drive the Hyundai again. I am sure that will solve your complaints.
So just curious here… would I be completely wasting my time to possibly stop by CarMax and see what they say and offer? Has anyone ever actually gotten out of a lease 1 year early and broke even, or close to it? I’m also getting worried too because I know I’m going to be way over mileage at lease end.
Always good to get a quote from CarMax in person and carvana, shift, and vroom online.
I may try CarMax this weekend, just to know if I am rational in looking right now or if I should just calm the hell down for another year, haha.
Also, places like Carvana, do their offers change constantly? I got an estimate on their website a month or so ago, but now I do it again and it’s a whole $1,500 lower than it was last time, and my mileage didn’t change significantly.
So I went to CarMax this weekend, my first time ever going there (super easy process by the way) and they appraised my car a lot higher than I thought they would. But, unfortunately, they weren’t able to get my payoff, since it was Saturday, but they’re finding that out for me today. I am worried that I am still close to $1,000 in the hole with their offer, though. Not terrible, but I would have loved to be able to break even. My question is, stupid question maybe, but can regular dealerships do this as well? If I look into a new lease with a different manufacturer, would those dealers be willing to offer to buy my current car/lease? I’m trying to look at all options here.
I tried Carvana, and their estimate was lower than CarMax. I have not tried Vroom yet. They’re making me enter a lot more information, and I’m frankly not wanting them to start calling or emailing me all the time after submitting…
Other dealers can, however, in my experience, very few will get to where CarMax does price wise. I have in the past taken my written offer from CarMax to the dealer I was buying from and said “if you can match this, you can have it” after they’ve given a lower offer so I could do all the transactions in one place.
It’s important to do that AFTER negotiating the price of the new vehicle though.
So, is the dealer payoff simply the residual value that’s on your lease, plus the remaining payments? Or is there more to it than that?
Seems to possibly vary. On my Honda lease, the payoff is the residual plus the sum of the depreciation. The rent charge is not included, meaning the payoff is significantly less than the RV plus the sum of the remaining payments.
You should be able to go to the online portal for your lease and get the value. If you call, you’ll want to verify if the payoff is a purchase payoff (may include tax) or a dealer payoff
Hyundai will not let me. They won’t show me online, and when I call a rep tells me only a dealer can request it. So I have no clue what the payoff is. Just waiting for CarMax to contact me, as they were supposed to get that today for me.
That sounds like BS. What if you wanted to buy it yourself and not have a dealer buy it?
CarMax was shocked, too. But I tried checking my online account…it states to go to a dealer. So I call, multiple times, speak to multiple reps, and they all said “go to the dealer”. 
Ridiculous.
So now CarMax is dragging their feet. They give me the appraisal Saturday and tell me Monday morning they will contact Hyundai and get my dealer payoff and then call me to let me know. Nothing. So I call yesterday and ask and they take all my information, again, and tell me they will call me right back. Still nothing now. Maybe I’m being impatient, but, come on guys. You’ve had four days now to make a call that literally would take 5 minutes and you can’t do it? It’s just frustrating…
FINALLY got my lease payoff… CarMax and Vroom both offered me $15,000. Payoff is $15,765. GRRR So close!! Oh well…I suppose I’ll just have to cool my jets and wait until September of 2020. Guess I should be fairly impressed that only two years into a three year lease and I’m only $765 in the hole…
What would you hackers do in my situation? Payoff amount is $726.00 more than my highest offer. I am currently facing the high probability that I will need to buy two new tires ASAP, as two are currently leaking. I am also on track to probably be around 3k to 4k miles over the limit by lease end next September. SO, do I pay $726.00 to get out of the current lease and try to get into something else, avoiding all fees at lease end, and avoiding buying tires? Or do I just sit tight, wait it out, and take my chances in Sep of 2020? The wife wants me to wait, because spending $726.00 right now isn’t a very good prospect to her. I’m torn. Opinions?
I’ve been in exactly your shoes. My payoff difference was $820. I paid it and walked away. Was already 5k miles over and needed tires on a Tundra. Was an easy decision for me but I was also going from my Tundra lease into a company truck that cost me nothing.
I would say pay the difference to get out of it if it was me. Your worst off if you keep it and have to pay mileage and tires down the road… would say try to work a better deal on your next lease that would make up for the difference in payment if thats a concern. Also check with Carvana and Joydrive if there in your area. Its your choice in the end, have to do what makes sense financially for you and your family.
So if my payoff difference is $726…is that truly all I would pay to get out of it now? No other fees or anything would be involved?
As long as the dealer payoff you recieved is the correct payoff it should be.