I am looking at E300 4MATIC retired loaner car with 1933miles on. Just got received a deal from MB dealer today, but still working on MF. I still want to lower down both MSRP and MF, but they are telling me it’s a bottom line. How you guys think?
Original MSRP $61,945 (original listed on Window Sticker)
New MSRP: $56,990 (as it is 1933miles loaner car)
Final Selling Price: $ 50,061.95 (19.2% from original/ 12.2% from new MSRP)
Residual: 60%
MF: 0.00055 (after 10 MSDs, original MF was 0.00125 before MSDs)
Doc and DMV: TBD (Since it’s out of state, doing it by myself)
Acq: $1095
Payment $437.17 + tax
36mo/7.5K
Maintenance/ Service: add on $20 per month for prepaid MB Service
Both MF and acquisition fee marked up. Should try to have it reduced. They are making too much on the MF. I would take 0.00032 if you can’t get them to the buy rate of 0.00012.
Can you get any fleet discount?
You should not have any problem to achieve sub 400 payment.
In the last week+, there have been a number of closed deals in the 23-24% off MSRP space, paying anything more than that is unnecessary unless you absolutely need the vehicle and aren’t willing to negotiate out of region. Selling price is too high. Find a couple more dealers to pit against each other to drive down the price/MF.
MF with 10 MSDs should be 0.00012. They are jacking up the MF big time.
Selling price should be 20%+ off MSRP. FWIW,I leased one last weekend and got 25% off MSRP. But also I had to fly out and get it since dealers in my area wouldn’t play ball. A one way ticket to anywhere in the country can be had for $250 or less. That’s a small price to pay if you save $100/mo over 36 months.
My lease was for a 4matic, MSRP 61.325, with 15K miles a year for $404 (not including tax or registration but including everything else). And this was with no fleet discount.
For 7500 miles you should be in the $350 range.
Edit: Acquisition fee of $1095 is also bullshit. It’s $795. This dealer sounds very shady, increasing both the MF and Aq. fee like that.
And what is New MSRP? There is no such thing. MSRP doesn’t change with mileage. I’d run away from this dealer if I were you.
It’s just profit. What’s “shady” about it? All that matters at the end of the day is the total cost. Doesn’t matter if the profit is in the selling price or in the MF or the LAF. OP, find the lowest total cost you can, in as wide an area as you can, and go for it.
Agree. All I am concern is the total cost of the lease and the monthly payment. If they can meet my target, I don’t care how they manipulate the numbers.
Then why bother breaking down a lease into its components? Just walk into a dealership and say I want to pay $X a month. Easy. And you’ll get a terrific deal, I’m sure.
That’s what happened to me for the last few leases.
I am not saying knowing the components is not important, it is actually critical. That’s how I came up with my target lease payment for the dealer. But at the end of the day, it’s the final monthly payment is what we care, for both dealer and the shopper. You just hv to do your homework first.
It’s all mathematic and your negotiations skill. And always be respectful.
25% off MSRP, allowed to apply fleet incentives, low tax state, MSDs, low miles to minimize residual hit and that will get you there on a 60K E-class (24 month lease). Finding that purple squirrel is a challenge.
Would you mind can you please share which dealership did you get the car? We are still negotiating within the 500miles from us but it’s not easy to lower down the MF and selling price…
