Agreed.
I would have definitely taken it to reviews / social media if they would have let me walk out even after offering more money ($340 a month) than agreed earlier ($335 a month).
But I was ready to take in $5 a month hit considering that’s the car color I wanted. And in the end we closed it at $340.
But you right, it ended up being the same deal which otherwise would have been a straight deal from other dealer.
Exactly we had driven almost 2 and a half hours to get to the dealer. Once they got you at the dealership it’s hard to negotiate.
We should put a dealer or salesperson black list on here for when this type of stuff happens.
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I’ve been in that boat too. Got almost burned the first time, as I lived in rural areas and nearest city with dealerships was 2.5 hours. What I did was keep the second best price dealership as a back-up option. In case the first one doesn’t fall thru, walk away and take an uber etc to the second one.
Great post for nooby hackers 
On my Lexus lease, they used the $3100 lease cash Towards the registration fees and cap cost reduction. Is this norm with lease cash?
Yes. Drives offs are paid upfront and anything more than the drive offs will go towards cap reduction.
Oh man, never go with your family. 
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Specially kids 20202020
Yeah agreed.
But I was supposed to be there for paperwork only and I specifically told the sales person that I’ll be with toddler and I don’t want to spend more time at the dealership… But ahh… well. … nothing went as agreed expect the deal closure (at higher price) part.
Your two reasons are absolutely true. But I don’t want to buy/lease from those dealerships. They may be good people, or not, but as a consumer, I only want to buy from an extremely volume-focused store (there’s some exceptions, like an aged unit a gross-based store needs to get rid of, but at that point, even a store normally reluctant to give you numbers should be enthusiastic about giving you all the information you ask for.)
You’re much less likely to get a stellar deal the way you’re suggesting negotiating.
" 5% of the msrp should be your total due at signing and it will cover the drive offs and have a little left over as cap reduction."
Of course, yes. That’s what I meant.
That is if you want to have anything DAS.
This explains why I am having a hard time getting those numbers. No on wants to give me numbers whats so ever. This is very challenging.
Yes because you are being too technical. I was shopping for a RDX for my wife yesterday. 5 online inquires and 3 phone calls and I got the lowest priced quote that was probably one of the lowest in town. When I got the lowest numbers, I just sent that back to the other dealerships to see if they can beat it. Half of them can only match it, the other half won’t do the deal.
Not once did I ask for MF and residual. Just provided the terms, total out of pocket, and trim with MSRP.
FYI 2018 Acura RDX $36,999 MSRP with literally just signature $375 including tax based on 9.5% 36/12k.
Have no idea what the MF and residual is but I don’t care. I know I got a very competitive quote for the car she wants and it’s in my budget. Took me 30 minutes.
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Oh, and one more thing. Ask for the MF and Residual AFTER you received the lowest monthly payment. They will give it 100% of the time because they already gave you a monthly. They got nothing to lose and for the most part they know at best another dealership can only match it!
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No employee lease on a Q5 for her?
Her USC tuition hurts… a lot…
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Was/Is it worth it? (Tuition at USC)