Does the 1% of msrp price rule apply to all makes when leasing?

You need to take a step back and start reading articles here. Focus on how leases are calculated, how to use the calculator, etc.

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What a car is selling for is not what a dealership has paid, nor what it ultimately sells for in the end. My point was to not use KBB value as a metric.

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Carvana, Carmax, Autonation…those are places you should request a buyout price for your vehicle. KBB isn’t writing checks, the above places are. Hence, their buyout prices are going to be more accurate for true market value of your trade.

Why are you getting out of this lease so early? You’re going to loose your a$$ on this car no matter what you do.

Vaseline Hml407 GIF by truTV’s Hack My Life

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Good question. I feel I overpaid and made an impulse purchase on the car I want to trade in. This time I want to be knowledgeable and informed about lease pricing. I’ve leased 5 cars previously but they were all in the 40-50k range. So with wanting to lease a 65k-68k luxury car now, I don’t want to over pay.

Trading your current lease early is not a way to rectify what you feel is a bad deal on your current car. As I’ve said, getting out of this lease early is going to COST you more than what you will “save” on just about any new vehicle lease. As long as you can afford what you’ve got, you probably better hang onto it. The good thing, it’s a lease. When your lease matures, you can go to the dealer, throw the keys at them and start fresh. (assuming you stay within your milage limits and no excess wear and tear)

For curiosity, what is this mystery car you currently have that you are dying to get out of?

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It’s a 2025 mazda SUV of the highest trim level.

Is the buyout price of my car going to decrease a year from now? Or is someone’s only option to pay residual value at the end of the 3 year lease?

Start from here:

Trading in the car does not necessarily gives you the highest value for your car. Sell your car to the highest bidder.

A monthly on a $68k car could range from $300 to $1k (Assuming 0 down).

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Your payoff today will be more than your residual. Your payoff in a year will be less than today, and more than your residual. Your buyout at disposition will be your residual - PA is one of two states AFAIK where you don’t want to buyout your lease because you have to complete that transaction at a dealership, and pay the doc fee a second time.

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Thank you for your response!! Yes I’m considering selling my mazda online to the highest bidder. It’s worth a shot if I want to get rid of it.

Good to know! Thanks! :grinning_face:

Do you actually hate the Mazda that much, or are you seeking a “better deal”? Because keeping the car you overpaid for is usually a better solution than paying extra interest on your negative equity.

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Another good reason to bring up. I do not hate the mazda I have now. But I would rather pay more for the car I actually want.

I guess if I’m going to lose a ton of money trying to trade it in, then I’m stuck with my mazda :smiling_face_with_tear:

As far as dealerships telling me I have 7k or more negative equity, how is that possible???

I’m aware they’re not going to make money off my trade in bc it’s brand new and it’s leased. But it’s in perfect condition and has barely any miles on it. I don’t think the car dealerships should penalize me that much money when I’m choosing to lease a new car from them.

You’re trying to shoot yourself in the foot financially… they’re just willing to help.

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You can just turn it in and walk away. That’s the beauty of the lease.

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Imagine paying $1500 for a EQS with this rule lol.

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Because you probably overpaid and the second you drive a car off the lot it depreciates significantly. Without knowing the terms of your existing lease 7k doesn’t sound unreasonable.

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It’s possible because you haven’t kept the car long enough to pay down on it. As many others have said and I’m about to reiterate it…you are not getting out of this car without SIGNIFICANT financial loss. The minute you drive a car off the dealer’s lot it depreciates THOUSANDS of dollars in that instant. What’s so hard to understand about that?

If you want out of this “highest trim level” Mazda be prepared to buy your own Vaseline for the … let’s, just say, unpleasant experience you’re about to go through.

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I understand cars depreciating a substantial amount when you drive them off the lot. My point is, why do I have to pay 11k more? if the negative equity is accounted for then I’m essentially paying for a 72k car, at $1461/month. I don’t think a 72k car with 1k down should be $1461 a month.