oh yesyes thats the RV but wanted to double confirm on the percentage once the MSRP is now updated. were you negotiating based on a actual vehicle? perhaps you have their stock# or vin number?
if not, its a different game you might have to play as you never know the your dealing with 5% discounted vehicle or 10% discounted vehicle
Selling price is right there, 31882.
So I have an updated offer of MSRP $39,180, sale price $35,366, drive off $2000, monthly payment $444.99 including tax, and residual $23,116. They didnāt clarify what the money factor was but they said itās the same at every dealership, so Iām guessing theyāre using the standard number and not marking up. Does this sound like a good deal?
Never assume buy rate, especially if they give you a bs answer like that.
I guess I donāt quite understand what the money factor is. If we have the MSRP, sale price, payments including tax, and residual, which part of the equation does the money factor affect?
The problem is that monthly payment is the output of the equation. If you know all the other details, including a breakdown of all the fees, you can back calculate the mf amount, but that requires having every other part of the puzzle.
There isnāt a magic monthly payment number that indicates if something is a good deal. Ultimately what most are judging things on is the pre-incentive discount amount from the dealer, after you factor in all the ways that a dealer could make that discount appear larger than it really is. When youāre negotiating, ultimately, thatās the only dial that can be adjusted. You need to know exactly what that dial really is saying to be the most effective, and that requires knowing the other pieces of the puzzle.
One doesnāt need to pay buy rate; great deals can be had with a marked up MF, but it is important to at least understand the effect of it on the deal as a whole.
Basically its a interest rate APR
So like if they said all is same and they markup slightly more where you couldve save 50 bucks
I wonder if anyone here knows this month lowest MF
What happen to 1% rule here
People learned itās useless.
So the other information that I provided isnāt enough to back into the money factor number? What other information do I need to determine if this is a good deal or not?
I see but 39k msrp vehicle for 444 m seems aweful deal to me
What fees are being charged? What add ons? Honda dealers in socal love their $1500 protection pack add ons, etc.
Oh, I agree this is an awful deal.
The approach that I would take in this situation would be to step back from the dealer conversation all together. Get rv/MF/incentives information from Edmunds and put together a target deal based on the current lease terms with comparable pre-incentive discounts you found researching other deals here. You really ought to know what a good deal is before you talk to a dealer so you have a frame of reference to start your negotiations.
Hmmm, in talking to like 5-6 dealers so far, none of them are in the same ballpark as deals like what started this thread. I guess that can be expected if showing that deal sheet to a dealer gets the response of āgo make a paper airplaneā with it. However, all the dealers in the greater LA area seem to be on the same page so could that mean it may just be a bad time to lease an Odyssey in my region?
I have had the best luck with hondas in so cal by getting a quote from the dealer in Hemet. I think they tend to hide a bunch of dealer add ons in person, but they send out offers without them. Gives something to ask a dealer to match.
Thatās a good idea. I can try that out. I may actually try getting some quotes from places like Fresno since I have family that Iāve been wanting to visit anyways. Thank you for all the input. Itās been very enlightening.