The guy keeps on telling me my final price is 41,750 with the rebate, but why does the monthly payment seem so high? (511/month) I chose to roll in taxes and fees.
am I supposed to get the rebate back as cash?
Residual is 58%
36 months - 7500 miles
$45000-$3250=$41750
The rebate is being used to lower the selling price.
What do you think it should be? Why?
When i put it on leasehackr calculator, the price seems to be under 500, closer to 470
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99 times out of 100 a calculator that doesn’t match up closely with the dealer offer is due to one of the following things:
- Assuming post-incentive discount from the dealer is pre-incentive
- Assuming the dealer is using buy rate mf
- Missing data in the calculator
- Not matching the DAS amount with the offer
If you post your calculator link, we can help sort out the issue
hi I am not even sure if if plugged in the numbers correctly. I do not know money factor
Well, let’s start with solving that issue.
Start by taking a step back from talking to dealers about specific vehicles until you have a good bit more research under your belt.
Spend a long while reading through the leasing 101 articles on here. Take it all in, except the one section that talks about the 1% rule. Forget you ever saw that one. Also, read through the leasehackr calculator FAQ.
Once you have that down, pick a vehicle or two you’re interested in, gather the RV/MF/incentive information from Edmunds and research comparable deals on here to develop a target pre-incentive discount for each vehicle.
Take those numbers and determine what your target deal is for each vehicle.
Then, and only then, think about reaching out to dealers to find one that will do your target deal.
Talking to the dealer is for finding someone to do your deal. It is not for finding out what the car might cost. If you don’t already know exactly what the numbers should be before you reach out, you’ll get stuck with offers like this to choose from.
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You certainly won’t get your calculator to line up without knowing MF. I plugged in .00125 and everything lined up honky dory. BTW, your DP is not 511. You have to put in negative DP until your total DAS equals 511.
But first follow the advice above.
When you don’t know the money factor is when the dealer starts playing games. If you were to say to the dealer that “$511 seems high to me,” right then and there you are a “payment shopper” to the dealer. The dealer might ask you what you want the payment to be at. Then you tell them “around $450.” They’ll increase your DAS and maybe shave some of the marked up money factor off to get your payment down closer to $450. Maybe they get it down to $475 and give you the “what’s $25 per month?” We’ve taken $36 per month off our original quote. They make you think you are getting a deal. That $25 per month is $900 in pure profit for them.
But as others have stated. If you have your own legitimate numbers prepared and ready and you tell them what you want the selling price to be and ask them if they are using XXXX as the money factor, then you are in control. As many here have said, the only reason to visit the dealership is to test drive, then take delivery of your beautiful new vehicle.
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