Please negotiate everything, if possible, before going into the dealership and give them a field advantage. Go there only to sign docs.
If you are set on Honda - at least get a quote from 3 dealerships and have then fight for your business. Also, exclude your trade from that - negotiate new car price and once you best price on the new car without trade-in, only then present it.
Otherwise dealerships will try to play hide and seek with numbers
When going for these quotes, best in person or over the phone? When mentioning the trade in, will the third party buyout ban have any affect? Just trying to better understand how to bypass this and what I should say at the dealer. Also, to receive these values I shared at the beginning from Honda, my credit had to be pulled. Will these other dealers also need to pull so I can get the best price? Donāt want too many inquiries affecting my score.
Rather than asking for quotes, it might be helpful for you to use the marketplace offers and the lease calculator to determine what a good deal looks like and then offer that to the dealerships.
I personally donāt like going to the dealerships to negotiate.
If they insist - I politely decline and tell them Iām not their customer.
Everything is over email, text, and phone calls. Anything promised on the phone has to be confirmed via text, so it wonāt be he said / she said issue.
I never allow them to pull credit to give me a quote - its a hook they use to crab you. But fortunately for you credit agencies consider few pull withing short period of time as normal part of shopping.
Donāt allow any other dealership to pull and just tell them āassume I have 780+ scoreā in your quote. I had a couple of dealership tell they canāt do that and I told them thanks for their time. They all can give quotes and assume Tier 1 credit reiting which is 740+
Just thought Iād provide an update. Backed out on trading in my lease as I was getting much higher equity by purchasing and then selling third party. Asked for a quote to purchase the new car (2024 Honda CR-V) with 5,000 cash down and was approved at 594 a month with a 9.375 INTEREST RATE. At a tier 1 credit 
. I will no longer be doing business there. Goal is to now purchase the car, have title in hand and work on selling and only then reach out to the next dealer to get a quote (hopefully one that will actually send me paperwork as this one, after multiple times of exclaiming to please email or text me the paperwork, just ghosted me). Question though: should I fight with that dealer to get a copy of my pre-approval so I have it on hand? I still donāt fully understand how I got that rate. Could it be because of the current lease I have?
Thatās just the general market.
Toyota advertises financing close to 10% on their site assuming tier 1.
Nissan leases between 8% and 9%
The only low rates Iāve seen is Mazda at 0% to finance and few of EVs to subvert the lease cost.
If itās something mainstream - between 8% and 10% and par course these daysā¦
When you buy out your car donāt forget to add sales taxes on the buy out price.
You can sell directly to the dealership and wonāt have to pay tax as they will buy direct from the lessor.
Iāve spoken with Honda Financial and my state (SC) does not charge sales tax on the purchase. This is why I think buying out and then selling third party is best. They charge an IMF up to $500.
Search the forum for the best APR credit union thread.
Lease vs. Buy: 2024 Mazda CX-5 Carbon Turbo
Tried to use calculator but missing money factor and residual. APR is 0. If financing, I do plan on putting about 5k down as I have about 3500 equity on another vehicle. ThoughTs?
Almost no discount at all after the garbage items are added back.
How does this compare to discounts in the Marketplace ?
Not sure how to navigate this. The car price is $36920 while the MSRP is $39660. All other fees following are applicable regardless. Canāt negotiate those. Thinking financing is the way to go here. Looking at the marketplace, barely anything is posted for my region. Hard to compare.
Also, Iāve tried multiple times to plug this deal into the calculator and am not getting any of these numbers. Any help on that would also be appreciated.
Have you contacted one of the brokers to see what they can offer?
Never. Not familiar with the process or what it even entails.
But it looks like the broker deal isnāt all that diff from what youāve recād (once you factor in broker fee and shipping).
Ask the dealer to remove the āMade 2 Move Pkg.ā
I agree. Thank you! This is definitely how Iāll be going about the negotiation today by phone. Remove Made 2 Move and a clarification on monthly payments as I was told these were all at 0% APR but when plugged into the calculator, is not appearing as such.
This is where we are now. Lease deal for $430 a month for 36 months putting 2,000 down from equity on third party buyout deal from selling my Honda Civic Sport. Payment includes all fees rolled in. Final negotiations tomorrow morning. HELP!
What is āMade 2 Moveā package for over $1k?
Ugh apparently clear paint coat, mats, accessories. Bs but theyāre not willing to go any lower given the discount and lease cash offer. Confirmed money factor is .00127 and residual is 25720. This is from dealer and confirmed through Edmunds.
This is such a terrible decision; youāll look back after burning almost $40,000 over two leases with nothing left to show for it and youāll wonder why tf you ever did it.
What happened to financing the CRV? Or the CX5?
Email this quote to any drivable Honda dealership around and ask them to beat it at least.
Go to dealership only to sign final deal. You wonāt negotiate more off this by going there.