So doesn’t look good for the future. If dealers won’t budge off 450 with 0 down and you want to be around 415 that’s only about 1400 more over the course of 3 years. Is this really a deal breaker for the car you absolutely want? Just pay 1000 in drive off using the bmw equity and your payment will be close to 400 if you want the car that bad.
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No offense, but you don’t really seem to get how supply and demand work in general. The 6 doesn’t sell. Mid-sized sedans that aren’t called “Accord” or “Camry” don’t sell. Of course, Mazda is going to discontinue a car that no one buys.
IMHO, get rid of the 3-series and just get a Mazda 3 at full MSRP, if you really won’t budge on trim or color. You keep saying that the dealers won’t budge. No offense, you’re not budging, either. Whatever you spend on that 3-series over the next year is likely doing to exceed whatever $ you would’ve saved on a mythical Mazda 3 deal that you cannot get at this time, and you just threw away $1.5K in equity, too.
Seriously: compromise, lease the exact car you want at a price you don’t like, or just continue to throw $ away on an old German car. It’s really that simple.
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Let’s back up for a minute here… it looks like you never answered the folks on edmunds with the term and Trim you were looking for. You need to make sure you have accurate rv/mf/incentives to start with.
You seem to have a mishmash of values in your calculator.
I can’t find anything on the dealer fee. I just assumed the calculator generated an average based on Mazda. The tax would be 9.5%, so just a slight adjustment.
The $930 is just that amount off MSRP, which will give you the dealer’s selling price. Some dealerships have a $1,000 customer cash-back bonus. Not sure why it’s so different.
I appreciate the insight. I agree just take what I can get right now. And not sure how my comment about the Mazda 6 warrants a blanket statement about my understanding of economics, but whatever. I just remember it being a popular choice for cars so I thought it was hot. I’ve spent more time doing this crap today than working.
After more than 100 posts you should know what incentives you qualify for. Did you look them up from Edmunds?
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Where did this come from? I totally did. I put in the right trim: Edmunds-Price-Suggestion — ImgBB (this is from when I first got an Edmunds value).
It’s from here, where you asked, per the step by step instructions you were given, but never responded when they asked you for details.
Your screen shot there doesn’t show rv/mf/incentives, which is what you were supposed to ask edmunds for.
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I know what I qualify for. I’m just saying some dealerships have a $1,000 customer cashback bonus (in lieu of the $930 customer loyalty support); I didn’t understand why there were these two different incentives going around, that’s all. I qualify for both but it just depends on what dealership I get my car from – no dealership is going to give both, obviously. I don’t qualify for any of the other military or Mazda loyalty incentives (which I’ve stated in here a number of times already).
Oh wow, I never got any notification for that. I stopped checking that thread since I saw that the Leasehackr calculator was giving me this info. I just responded so we’ll see if what I’m given is different than what Leasehackr is giving me.
Well, when you get the info from them, let’s take another stab at working out an appropriate target.
In CA, the dealer doc fee is set by law at $85, so the calculator default is correct there. I’d probably expect $450ish for the gov fees, but you can get most of them from the dmv.
Having the correct tax rate is important.
Your description of the $930 makes it sound a lot more like a dealer discount than an incentive. Edmunds will provide what the actual incentives are.
It is an incentive. Good luck!
Yeah I played with the DMV calculator and it’s $448. Tax rate for where I’m registering is 9.5% Dealer acquisition fee IDK where I’d find that…the quotes and stuff some dealers gave me didn’t include a number anywhere. I’ll assume the Leasehackr calculator is more or less a good ballpark amount.
And yes, @sharksfan15 is right, the $930 is an incentive. Thanks for answering that.
Hopefully it applies to leases. That $1000 customer cash is definitely a financing only one. Isn’t totally clear on the $930 one from what sharksfan posted.
It is for lease-only…the name of it is literally “Customer Lease Support.” I just checked the $1,000 Customer Cashback on Mazda’s website and it is for purchase only; you’re right.
I’m just going off of it being called “limited term bonus cash” above. If it’s listed elsewhere as lease support, then it should be good to go.
Someone on Edmunds responded. Yeah, the numbers look like what Leasehackr was giving me:
.00001 for MF and 55% for RV.
Current incentive is the $930 lease cash (as the person worded it).
OK, with that all verified, your $400/mo, $0 das target would require about 8.25% pre-incentive
Now you know what you actually asked for.
If we go off of autoleaseninjas price point of 5% and factor in the $450 broker fee, you’re basically sitting exactly at $450/mo
So now you’ve got a more appropriate target to pursue given the current market conditions based on what’s available in the shared deals and marketplace.
Or you can reevaluate if $450/mo is worth the price to lease a Mazda 3.
Now those numbers aren’t drastically different from what you were saying above, but now you have context for them to actually base things off of.
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Yeah, thanks for all the help. At this point it seems like if I want a lower $400s payment, I just have to put something down and call it a day and probably not opt for 0 drive-off either. It’s the only way to get into my desired monthly range.
Do you guys usually opt for GAP insurance? I’ve read it’s not always required and that’s it’s an option as — it is an extra insurance after all. I know my Farmer’s offers it and it’s a lot cheaper than what one dealer gave me in terms of lease w/ GAP and w/o.
You’d be better off just putting the amount you would put down into a bank account and pulling from it to offset your payment. It doesn’t change your total lease cost at all to put all that money up front.
As for gap insurance, most people don’t use it ad most brands don’t need it. Toyota financial is pretty much the only one that doesn’t include gap coverage automatically. You are definitely better off doing it through your insurance than through Toyota financial though.
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