Yeah, I know that. Not my first time dealing with a sales person. I was just passing along what she said.
With no incentives right now except for a 0.9% APR (to finance though, not lease), I really am unsure what to do. I just would hate by end of year to have minimal to no Turbo Premium Plus models in white due to production issues.
Itās the trim with the most equipment in it, so anything is possible. J VINs are more in trouble than the rest of the manufacturers.
That said, your gf is driving a 2019 Civic. Why not drive that until those Mazda3s are leasing well?
I kinda took over this thread unintentionally. I am not the OP. I just popped in asking questions since I was trying to read up on similar threads since Iām looking to lease a 3 too, and eventually kept stringing along the thread.
To update this thread. My girlfriend got what I would think is a good deal. As I mentioned when I started the thread, we went in blind the first time (just to test drive to see if she even liked the car). Of course typical dealership tried to make us sign on the spot. I got fed up and told him weāre not signing until I go do my research. When they ask āhow much you want to spend a monthā, iām like dude that question is useless to meā¦I want to know what a āgood dealā is and what a ābad dealā isā¦so iāll come back after I do some research and tell you what I want. Got to the point where he couldnāt even look me in the face anymore (poor dude was butt hurt lol)
Anyway. My girlfriend sold her car elsewhere. She got bought out of her lease and cleared just over $5,000 in her pocket (her payoff was actually a bit less then we initially thought).
We went to a DIFFERENT Mazda dealer. Same car, 2021 Mazda 3 AWD Turbo Sedan. True $0 down (she kept her $5k), and we got it down to $399/month. Was it the best deal, maybe not, but for the current market situation, I personally felt like that was a good deal. Paid $399 that day, and thatās it. EVERYTHING is rolled in. (take that back she took GAP but we got that for dirt cheap, I think like $450 total so it only raised it like $13). So $412 that day and $412/month (with GAP), took nothing else.
Hope that helps for other people looking to get pricing. Nothing better than walking in confident with a number in mind, and no care in the world about walking out. That is what you need to do. Thatās why I did most the talking & negotiating for my girlfriend. She may get emotionally attached to the car (as some people may if itās there car)ā¦but the car is not for me, so I had no emotion in it. They will feed off of that stuff.
Thatās why I came here, did my research, figured what I thought was a good deal and went for it. Good luck!
Thanks for the update. What was the final selling price? My first dealer experience was similar to yours ā I refuted everything because I needed to do my research. And does anyone know if GAP is really necessary? Will your regular auto insurance cover it? And the $300 range is what I am trying to go for too, although I am wanting the Turbo Premium Plus. I assume you negotiated the selling price then from there had to play around to cut the monthly payment down?
To add to my last comment (and also touching base on one of your previous ones)ā¦you said some dealerships where marking up the MSRP or wouldnāt budge. Donāt believe them. Of course they will say theyāre not going to budgeā¦especially if you say it in a way like āis there any wiggle roomā. Go in CONFIDENT! I donāt recall exactly what the MSRP was on our deal because honestly the end number was more important (they can move stuff around). But if it helps at all, I recall when we where in finance the guy said we got it for $500 under invoice. He said invoice, not MSRP. Donāt know how true that wasā¦If I can see the numbers again iāll confirm pricing better (I think they gave her the docs on a USB thumb drive lol)
*Just finished typing this as your last comment posted lol
After talking to a few Mazda dealerships and doing a bit of research, I felt $399/month with zero down was good. So I didnāt negotiate any pricing for MSRP or anything. I just had an end goal in mind of $399. I told them $399/month, zero down, everything rolled in. At first they said no we canāt do that. Then he want back and the other guy came out. He said fine we can do it but you need to pay NJ registration fees and stuff. In the end, they did $399/month zero down, everything rolled in. Then she opted for GAP since we got a good price on it. I never leased personally so donāt know about GAP on leasing, but we thought it was worth it for that price. Maybe others can chime in on that.
A Mazda3 for the price of a Volvo S60.
Crazy times. But I donāt doubt that for a fully loaded Mazda3, itās a good price.
I read that Mazda switched to using Toyota as their primary captive bank? Then yes, if thatās true,you need GAP because TFS does not waive it.
But everybody else waives GAP liability (including TFS for Lexus).
But if itās not through TFS, you do not need GAP on a Mazda lease.
Thank you. I understand everyoneās experience is different ā Iām a first-timer on leasing too. Iāve reached out to the autoleaseninjas to see if they can help me. Iād ideally want $0 down, too.
Not sure if it varies by dealer, but the first dealer I went with gave me lease numbers with or without GAP, so I assume itās optional.
@mah4546 is correct that Mazda uses Toyota Financial now. But it was optional because he showed us the price with and without it.
I know when my girlfriend leased her Honda Civic GAP was included I believe as Honda does that. Mazda it is not included. (from my knowledge, not the most experienced with leases)
Is it GAP or is it a dealerās version of GAP?
Some dealer try to rip off customers by convincing them they need GAP, when itās not really GAP, but more like āyou pay us $X, and if the car is totaled we pay you out $Y.ā Itās a scammy dealer product, like nitrogen tires or VIN etching.
I suspect it might be the latter, in which case Iād cancel.
If your lease is with TFS, you I believe need GAP. If your lease is with any other bank, you do not need GAP, your lease has a GAP waiver.
I didnāt know there were even āversionsā of GAP. The manager just told me two quotes, one with GAP and one without. Iām not seriously considering this one place since they donāt have the color I want and their selling price is $6k over what the MSRP is. Iāve reached out the autoleaseninjas to see what I can get.
When Mazdaās captive was Chase, GAP was included. Mazdaās captive has been TFS for nearly 2 years. Your car insurance company may offer GAP, or you can buy a separate policy online. What the dealer is selling is most likely just 3d party GAP coverage.
To belabor the point a little more, TFS does not include GAP waivers, so on a current mazda or toyota lease through TFS, by default, you have no GAP coverage. The dealer will offer to sell you GAP coverage, at an additional expense, but you have no obligation to take it, so it is optional. With that said, proceeding with no GAP coverage puts you financially at risk. It generally is much more cost advantageous to get gap coverage through your insurance or local credit union, if available, than to get it through the dealer. You can also not get GAP coverage at all, although with the low cost of coverage through insurance, it usually doesnāt make much financial sense to go at-risk without gap coverage.
Thank you, I have never dealt with this before. So I can just lease w/o GAP and ā¦I assume either way I have tell my auto insurance I have a lease on a new car and they just work the GAP stuff out for me? So itās either work it out through your own insurance or have the dealer just slap something into your lease that covers GAP?
You should talk to your insurance ahead of time to see if/what they offer as far as GAP coverage
Looks like OP got 5.5% off MSRP, have you look into financing? There are no incentives for this car right now.
I just spoke with them. They charge significantly less for GAP insurance for 3 years than what that one dealership offered me. $411 vs. $1116.