You are shopping payments without looking into all of the variables that are making up that payment. On a normal lease deal, it is pre-incentive discount and MF that are the two variables that can be changed by the dealer. Here, it is the pre-incentive discount, MF, and trade/lease buyout. Adding more variables means that you need to sort the unknowns out before figuring out how much the new Charger is going to be. As a leasing forum, like others have said, we are only here to look at the lease deal side of things.
It is practically impossible for us to tell you what a âgoodâ monthly payment is for your specific lease as lease programs are highly dependent on region, personal qualifications, tax rates, etc.
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, youâll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
Read Leasing 101 (EDITORIAL | LEASEHACKR) to understand how to calculate a lease payment and the variables. Monthly payment is an output, not an input!!
Pick a specific vehicle that you want to target
Gather the current MF, RV and incentives from Edmunds forums for your zip code
Research the LH marketplace and other deals that have been made recently on your vehicle - what was their pre-incentive discount? How did their lease terms differ?
Plug your numbers into the LH calculator, and use a pre-incentive discount similar to what you have seen
Create a target deal, this is what youâre trying to negotiate to. You can try different terms, selling price discount, etc. and see how your monthly payment is affected. It is also possible that different trims of your vehicle may have different MF and RV (i.e. this is very common with GM), so make sure that you look into that. Come up with a set of inputs that give you the output that you want - your desired monthly payment.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
Evo, people absolutely understand your question, and also that you were not asking for personal finance advice, butâŚif somebody asks for the best strategies on winning Russian roulette they ought not to be surprised when people instead advise strongly not to play the game at all.
This is why in my opinion it is best to never even discuss a trade until you already have an agreeable deal worked out on the new car. Thereâs just simply no other way to know how the shell game is being played. With all the online buyer/resources available, it is pretty easy to get a rather accurate trade value assessment independently.
youâre going to rent a 50k car that you can probably get for 45k for 3 years for $33k. Sell that ram private party, put the 4K âdownâ to get rid off the negative equity (which is way less than 8k private party sale) and get yourself a $300 camaro LT1
Here we go again with âget xxx car bs,â itâs quite clear what he wants. I thought we got past this last yearâŚ
Itâs as if many of you donât understand how segments work, in what world is a 4 door sedan comparable to a 2 door coupe??
With that being said I agree about the private party avenue for the negative equity, he should get rid of the negative equity if he can without rolling it into his next lease, as said earlier the negative equity will accrue interest.
You are right about that part maybe I wasnât clear in how I explained it.
Without trading the car in the sales price is a solid starting point, picking apart the deal I assumed op would be able to discern that but I should have clearly stated that no trade should be involved until the deal is done, anytime you start dealing with a trade in the middle thereâs potential for a dealer to hide money in the deal and shaft you on the trade or vice versa.
