I live in Las Vegas, I reached out to a bunch of dealers trying to get one of them to match an offer a broker posted here from the east coast on 2021 Q50 Luxe, none got that close but 2 came back to me with offers on the 2020 Q50 sport instead. The Car has an MSRP of $49,525, I am paying $1,000/1,100 total due at signing, plus the max 9 MSD and $340 a month including taxes. The lease of gor 39/10K. The dealer did not send me the full lease term sheet yet so I’m not 100% sure about all the specifics, but the total off MSRP is $13,916.96, just not sure how much is a discount and exactly how much they are applying in incentives. I do not qualify for loyalty. Since i’m not sure how to breakdown the $13,916, i just reduce the price by all of it and applied no incentives when i imputed it into the calculator and then backed into the other numbers based on the out of pocket and monthly payments.
Check out Rodo, just to get an idea if there are options.
I’m currently leasing Q50 3.0t Sport in Florida (due in two weeks) for $462, $0 down. but this year my dealer offers much better (under 400 zero down), but there is very limited selection (black on black).
I’ve seen this in Orlando at Rodo. I think you should be able to get similar without MSD, depending on the specs. if you are open to black exterior and interior, there are still plenty of cars left.
How is MF and incentives the #1 most important thing??
The most important thing is how much I’m paying. MF and incentives are just a way to help get there and structure the deal. If MF is marked up but the dealership offers a bigger discount who cares?
meant clarifying how much of the discount is incentives and how much of the discount is coming out of the dealer. Then can get the pre-incentive % discount and compare w other deals on the forum to get a sense of how much there’s left on the table. Also verifying MF is key since a jacked up MF undoes some of the discount, of course no problem if discount is big enough to account for this. But you need to know what buy rate is to make that call. Wording was a little poor on my part earlier.
is that price, 362/month before or after taxes? my quote above of 340/month includes taxes. With $1,000 drive off i’m only paying an additional 640 down. Also does the 362 due at signing in redo include all taxes, fees and registration?
How do you like you Q50 sport? i have a G37 back in 2012 that I liked, but it was AWD and the 2020 sports they are trying to lease me are RWD:(
Please explain, how I can get screwed it I know how much I am paying?
Am I missing something? At the end of the deal the way the deal is structured actually makes no difference right? If my total cost of the lease is less than other peoples then I got a good deal and if its more I got a bad deal regardless of the structure no?
See, I had a deal where my manager marked 0.00200 on Tundra where the base rate was 0.00115.
He did give deeper discount, but it all makes up with the rate in the back (Like more than $1,500). Most dealers actually say what matters is what you pay for the vehicle and that is partly right, but what I am saying is there is actually more. Also, you can’t look at the structure of the deal right off the pencil.
362 total including Florida (6.5) taxes, new registration and loyalty. and this includes ridiculous doc fees (799 I think).
I did like the car at that stage in my life. but it doesn’t feel enough anymore. I was only considering as an option if I dont find anything more fun. I have asked dealer to find me q60, but there was none. they have finally called me yesterday saying there is RS coming in two weeks, but I have already signed c43.
It is okay car, but it is little dated. I hate black exterior, biege looks much better. also Sport has better seats, but no ventilation.
the worst part is the car is long due to be renewed - those two touch screens look like from two different decades. it needs holistic redesign.
but for under 400 a month with nothing down it is a good car. I don’t want to discourage you
Assessing a deal purely based on comparisons of monthly payment & DAS with other deals from other regions and time periods which may have different MFs, incentives, rebates, etc. means you don’t actually know what you deal is. Not saying it doesn’t work, its possible to get a good deal payment shopping, but its hard to have an accurate idea if its good or not. My $0.02. YMMV. Hard for anyone here to give feedback on a deal without those couple specifics. Your calculator link leads to an Alfa deal. To be fair you have a lot of the details, just a couple missing which are no problem to obtain.
The Rodo deal for $362 das and $362 is what you should be looking for. I got mine for $420 das and $420 mo for 39/10, MSRP 51,525. It’s high for the car but I needed a car ASAP and I beat the shit out of my last Q50(lost a key, parked on the street in Chicago hella scratches and dents, original tires drove like 30k) so I wanted to get out of paying any damages, I’m planning to sell it after a year or whenever new car smell goes away.
See what kind of incentives and discounts you’re qualified. Also get RV MF and lease cash from Edmunds for your region, IFS keeps changing them. Get quotes for AWD they’ve higher lease cash and better RVs.
9 MSDs aren’t worth for a Q50. I bet dealer isn’t discounting the car at all or just slightly and only using lease cash. Recently IFS had almost 8500 lease cash on sport AWD and 9250 on RS AWD
Before I sign of course I will have all those numbers, but I guess what I don’t understand is if one deal ends up having a lower MF or less rebates/incentives, but higher total cost over the lease its a worse deal no?
Like I guess I see what you are saying that if the MF is higher than it could be then maybe I could get an even better deal, but if I reached out to like 15 dealerships and this was the best they all offered is that not the most important?
I also reached out to a number of brokers on here and none could come close to touching the deal.
updated the calculator link, my bad. So looking on edmonds it seem residual should be 49% and MF should be .00122, plugging those numbers into the calculator lead to a monthly fee of $9 more than they offered, so I can only assume they further brought down the MF. I had to bring it down to .00098 to get my month payments correct.
ask to test-drive it. My numbers could be better because I have 2000 loyalty/lease-to-lease. without those 2000 its above 400. so perhaps your deal isn’t that bad.
I have never had g37, so I cannot compare. I’ve seen people being nostalgic about that engine comparing to the new one, but again, I have not personally tried it.
probably a little discrepancy with the fees. Buy rate MF pre-MSD is set, dealer can’t drop that, only mark it up. No worries there. Seeing that your calc has 3k in incentives and a 22% discount. I feel like there could be incentives baked into that selling price. What did edmunds say the incentives were when u asked them for the info in your ZIP?
If without loyalty you are getting over 400 and i’m at 340, why is this only not that bad. If you truly think its just an average deal then I plan to pass on it. Compared to what I’ve seen posted on any cars around this MSRP its the best deal i’ve seen, compared to what brokers have offered me on this car or similar its way better and without a broker fee.
If anyone has suggestions on another car where there are better deals available please let me know. I am not set on this car, my goal was really to try and get the best deal possible on a sedan that was fun to drive.
