Back to this:
@Rolyon kudos for moving that score up from 419 to almost 600 (hopefully these are FICO scores), even on a loan you want to be another 50-80 points high to get better rates and products across the board, not just cars. Keep doing what you’re doing.
Probably a few useful tips here
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don’t hire a credit repair service, you can do just about everything yourself.
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without digging into OP’s specifics, here: a 594 makes me suspect some/many derogatories are still open, which depending on the type can be a deal killer. Without knowing what they are, or in what status, it’s difficult to be more specific than “continue cleaning them up”
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credit score is only one consideration in a loan/lease: it’s effectively used to short-circuit humans always evaluating the entire bureau(s) (see today’s post about how amazing credits scores aren’t enough to lease a MB). If the score itself isn’t a no, other elements of the bureau are checked (even with mom as cosigner, a human is going to review both in detail), then income/dti.
4a) If @Rolyon were to get a loan today: a CU is usually a good choice, especially one that your service makes you eligible for. Even with mom as a cosigner, you may be looking at Tier 2
This is Navy Federal today: 5.59% for 8 years - only on a Toyota with ToyotaCare would I not sweat an 8 year loan
4b) If resuscitating your credit score slightly outweighs the smell of a new 4Runner (and derogs don’t prevent it): get your Credit Union to loan you money (even if you don’t need it) for 12-24 months on the Altima in your driveway: make 12 monthly payments and pay it off. Even if mom has to cosign, even at 6-7% interest. A closed/paid-in-full auto loan on your bureau is 
, no matter the impact to your score (which may go down before it goes up).
Hope something there is helpful - keep asking questions and making progress.