I have never leased a vehicle, was told you lose too much value, that being said this forum is helping me understand a bit more. Am I missing any hidden costs or gotchas?
(We have 2 OLD cars but each with only 105,000 miles, however was thinking now might be a time to upgrade, at least one.)
Although a Tesla would be cool, let’s be real, I am Chevy Bolt kinda cheapo. At first I wanted the Bolt with DC1 and DC2, but since the Bolt doesn’t have ACC (Adaptive Cruise), I now think DC1&2 are useless.
Here is the messaging from the dealer:
LT model with DC fast charge
MSRP $38245
-$2000 dealer discount
+$85 doc fee
+$695 bank acquisition
+$517 DMV
+7 new tire tax
-$8150 GM rebates
Total one-pay amount with estimated taxes/DMV
$9,942.83 with a money factor of 0.00001
While initially not accepting my supplier pricing, I am working on that added value.
Discounts/Rebates I have access to:
PGE: $800
State: $2000
Supplier Discount: $1400 (If honored)
All in price: $5742 ($159.5 per month)
Possible trade in ~$2000
What am I missing? Am I making a mistake? Will I regret leasing at month 36?
105k isn’t all that many miles for a Honda Accord. I would check out what similar are being asked for on Craigslist before you trade in for $2000. Just glancing at my local I would think you could get close to double that if it has no major problems.
There’s a huge market for basic reliable but cheap transportation. That market really won’t care about some minor cosmetic issues that can often be prettied up with a little manual labor.
Was the $9,942.83 figure provided by the dealer? Or did you calculate it? Because I’m getting a different amount when I plugged everything into the Leasehackr calculator ($10,699):
If it is mechanically sounds (which it probably is for a Honda), it can be a very viable option for somebody looking for a good car that needs a little work.
All of those numbers were from the dealer over text. He told me I “don’t qualify for the 1400 supplier discount, since they already are giving me dealer pricing”